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#1
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More transom prep. Is it ok to add some 1708 to the inside of the skin on the transom to thicken the skin before i glue my first sheet of ply? I had to grind a good bit of "dry" unsaturated chop strand to get down to a good surface for adhesion purposes. I have read the factory thickness of the outer skin should be about a 3/16 to a 1/4 of an inch.
Last edited by Kracker Jack; 10-17-2011 at 04:49 PM. 
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#2
10-31-2011, 08:20 PM
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Ok so im ready to build my transom. I have searched and searched and read thread after thread about a lay up schedule for my transom. Can someone please talk me into a schedule for glass and resin for my outboard 25" transom. I have read so many different ways of tackling this transom and what kind of glass and what ounce to use. Im using polyester and im looking to do either a old school layup or use a new school layup with 1708. I want simple and functional. guys thank you so much in advanced.
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#3
11-04-2011, 08:04 PM
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This is the view of my boat I had to look at all day 54 degrees outside and rainy on my day off. What crock of crap!!!!!!I guess im just gonna have to pull her over to my dads and put her in the shop for the winter so i can keep her dry and leaf free.
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#4
11-17-2011, 01:08 PM
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repairing some holes in the console cut my ply to fit then glued the in with a resin woodflour mix. They tightened up solid as a rock.
Here is the transom configuration im gonna go with. I realize you all want me to put a 25" transom on this boat, I just can't afford to buy a new 25" inch motor when i have 2 perfectly running 135hp's. So to get the best of both worlds I'm gonna set my transom up like this with a 20" inch transom and then glass in a sump well with a wall kinda like this. Any opinions? Last edited by Kracker Jack; 11-17-2011 at 01:29 PM.
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#5
11-17-2011, 04:03 PM
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Quote:
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless.
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#6
11-27-2011, 10:20 PM
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So to tie my sole to the existing liner I made some ledgers or blocks to glue to the hull. I also did alot of gelcoat removal today(what a pain in the a$$!!!!!)Any advice from this point on is welcome.
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#7
12-02-2011, 09:27 AM
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Long winded apology in advance.
Grinding job looks Fantastic.. Console looks good too. Stringers have to go in before the sole.
 Advice takes all forms.. You got a lot of glassing to do. Transom, Stringers then sole. I like the idea of a nice splashwell on 20" transoms. The factory thought so too. Your V should sit high in the water with the 135 so no big deal. Layup schedule for the transom. You have the plywood if I remember correctly. Make a pattern out of cardboard or whatever, cut the plywood out and dry fit. Rough up the plywood then laminate the plywood together to get the thickness desired using 2 layers of CSM in between pieces and weight down until dry. Trim the edges and then putty or glass the plywood in place. I found a fiberglass shop that allowed me use of their transom clamps. Another way to hold it together is to clamp where you can and drill through the outside of the transom and use screws to pull the core tight against the outer skin where normal clamps won't reach. Remove and fill the screw holes after dry. There will also be the original mounting holes for the motor. You can find some long bolts, fit the core exactly where it needs to be, drill the bolt holes in the core using the factory holes as a pattern and then use a piece of scrap 1x4 or 2x4 on the inside to squeeze the core against the outer skin. You may end up with a combination of all of the above and/or more. If you use putty try and wipe up excess and/or use putty to fillet the edges and transitions. Once the transom kicks and you remove the clamps you can grind the edges reinforce the perimeter (sides and bottom) with one layer of medium weight 8" or 10" wide tape and one layer of 1708, wet on wet and allow the 1708 to overlap the sides by 6-8". Heavier layups are OK but I would try to incorporate some transom knees when I was making up the stringers. Wherever the stringers touch the transom and inside hull bottom in the back will need to be lightly ground again to facilitate glassing but only at those attachment points and 12" on either side. The sole and stringers: Need to figure from the topside down to get the correct stringer/sole height. Run some string from the freshly ground floor port to stbd. then make the stringers short of that by the thickness of the core you are using in the floor and don't forget to reduce the height of the stringers by the anticipated thickness of the glass on top of the stringers and bottom of floor if you plan to glass that too. ie, floor core thickness 3/4" + glass on top of stringers 1/8" + glass on floor bottom 1/16" + fudge factor of 1/16" to 1/8" = Stringer height 1 1/16" below your strings from stem to stern. Easier to build up a stringer than to take one down so the fudge factor. Wellcraft attached my liner to the top of the stringers with fiberglass putty. If you go the same route the sole should lay real close to flush with the top of your floor so you can glass the top of your floor and your sole to your existing side pieces in one visit. Where is Skool and the glassmen. I want another opinion. LOL.
__________________
 1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS
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#8
12-06-2011, 09:14 PM
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Well I clamped her in every spot I could!!!!! I only did one layer of ply because I wanted to do it one layer at a time and did'nt want my my work to get ahead of me. Im going to soak dowl rod with resin and then run the dowls rods through my clamping holes when the laminating is complete. I cut relief cuts in my plywood in 4 spots to allow the ply to conform to the outer skin I then filled the relief cut with thickened resin. I am very happy with the way the first piece turned out. Im going to clean out one of the garage bays at my dads friday so i can pull the boat in there saturday ITS GONNA GET COLD!!!!!
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#10
12-09-2011, 08:34 AM
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Kracker...could you use an apprentice??...you're doin' the kind of stuff I'd like to learn...wish you were closer...looks fun!!...nice work...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha 
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