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  #11  
Unread 03-05-2011, 07:53 AM
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captpete13 captpete13 is offline
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Thats great. Having a forklift at your disposal really makes things easier. Now the fun begins. Cutting,grinding,fiberglassing,more grinding more fiberglassing. But it is worth it. keep the pics comming.
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  #12  
Unread 03-05-2011, 08:38 AM
CharlestonSC CharlestonSC is offline
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question on replacing the wood in the floor.
I see I can cut around the edges from the bottom side and take out the bad plywood so if I coat the new wood in resin and stick it back in would it be best to use a new piece of fiberglass woven over the wood or just use the piece I cut out and just glass the edges I cut back?
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  #13  
Unread 03-05-2011, 09:07 AM
CharlestonSC CharlestonSC is offline
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Also what are the choices when I put the floor back in as far as attaching it back to the stringers and bulk heads? Looks like they used some thick fluffy resin then put the floor in, others have said to use 5200?
What do you think is best?
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  #14  
Unread 03-05-2011, 05:34 PM
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when I put the new wood in I "glued" it in place with resin that I thickened with West system adhesive filler. I applied it with a notched trowel. Then I put a fresh layer of woven roving over the whole thing. When I put the floor back in I used West 610. But I used a lot. I think 8 tubes. 5200 would probably work fine too. West offers empty calk tubes that you can mix up your own thickened epoxy and put into the tube.
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Last edited by captpete13; 03-05-2011 at 05:39 PM. Reason: forgot something
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  #15  
Unread 03-05-2011, 09:21 PM
CharlestonSC CharlestonSC is offline
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Did you remove the thick resin on top of the stringers that filled the gap to the floor? or did you just put your resin on top or that?
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  #16  
Unread 03-05-2011, 10:06 PM
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I removed all the old stuff. The stuff that was on my boat was sticky and a real mess to work around so I got rid of it all
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  #17  
Unread 03-06-2011, 10:55 PM
Richie Rich Richie Rich is offline
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definitely remove the old..sand down the surrounding area..mix up some new resin with cabosil and milled fibers then re-glass the whole thing....5200 sounds easy, but resin such as epoxy or vinyl ester is much more stronger than 5200...by a long shot.
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  #18  
Unread 03-07-2011, 07:27 AM
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this is what boat builders use
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...MA530+Adhesive

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...MA320+Adhesive
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  #19  
Unread 03-07-2011, 08:44 PM
CharlestonSC CharlestonSC is offline
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Thanks for all the input, got the lid off and to my surprise everything looks pretty good, the top of the transom has a small amount of rot, so I was thinking of cutting the bad wood out and using dowel pins to marry the old and new pieces together then reglassing? Then add some extra support for my T-top to plant into.
Any thought on using normal fiberglass resin vs. vinyl ester vs. epoxy?
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  #20  
Unread 03-07-2011, 09:01 PM
Richie Rich Richie Rich is offline
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For making new parts or cosmetic repairs, its OK...but for repairs to transoms and anywhere you need really good secondary bonding and it needs to be waterproof, I would not use anything but VE or Epoxy...especially when glassing over wood. Thats why cold molded wooden boats use epoxy, not polyester.
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