Suitable helm replacement??

gofish · #1 12-21-2008, 08:13 PM

Hello All
Just found this great forum and was hoping someone would have the answer to my question:
I have a 1985 V-20 Steplift w/ mid-90's 150 Yamaha. The steering went out on me Sat., 8 miles out in the gulf. I've determined that it is the gears in the helm that are broken. At first I still had port steering, only the starboard steering was out. Somewhere between the slow trip home the port steering went out as well.
My question: Is this http://www.outdoorsuperstore.com/pro...sp?prod=254135 a suitable replacement for my current setup. I'm almost positive it's the original helm that I have now.
Any advice or links to other products would be greatly appreciated.
I'm not looking to go to hydraulic or upgrade to something that I don't need. I just want my steering back on my beloved (and well-used) v-20.
Thanks
Ragan

macojoe · #2 12-21-2008, 08:29 PM

Welcome to the site!!

You need to look at the end of the cable that goes into the helm and make sure you match it up to be the same.
Some have a pin that you have to pull to lock them in.

You will also need a puller to get the steering wheel off, try spraying it for a day or so first to loosen the rust.

When reassembling use antiszee so it will always come off again with out problems

spareparts · #3 12-21-2008, 09:15 PM

go to ebasicparts.com and get a complete no feedback helm/cable kit. usually if the helm fails, its because teh cable is getting stiff. One usually follows the other, if you can't come up with the money for the nofeedback, go with a rotory set up. try Uflex brand, they are substantially cheaper than teleflex or Morse (same company now). To use the helm you have listed, it will have to be the safe T-Type cable in the boat. Look at the helm you have now and see if it has a large hairpin holding the cable in place

phatdaddy · #4 12-21-2008, 09:16 PM

you might want to get the cable length and price the NFB helm unit(no feed back). i had the regular unit and wanted to go hydraulic, but the cost was too much. somebody on here suggested that as an alternative and i love it. fits in the same holes, but steers like hyd. i have also been told that if you change the helm and not the cable, it will cause premature wear in one or the other.
what part of the gulf? i'm in north fl
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...2&classNum=693

This is the unit, but i thought i got a kit with the cable for about $175 from a local marine vendor.

gofish · #5 12-21-2008, 09:37 PM

Thank you for all of the quick replies.
I'm going to try to remove the helm/wheel tomorrow. I'll take some pics so that I can show exactly what my current setup looks like. I know that it is one cable that goes into the helm and it loops around to come out the bottom.

phatdaddy, I live in Panama City, FL. I mostly dive/spearfish w/ a little bottom fishing on the side.

spareparts · #6 12-21-2008, 09:55 PM

pulling the wheel is a two person deal, loosen the nut holding the wheel to the helm, but don't take it all the way off. Have a helper ready with a suitable punch and a good size hammer, while you are pulling back on the wheel(go ahead and get your legs inot it and pull real hard), have the helper line up the punch on the shaft, and smack it with the hammer. it will usually break the wheel loose of the tapered shaft, there are some that will require heat or a puller, but 9 out of 10 will come off like this. You leave the nut on while doing this so you won't end up in the back seat when it comes loose

gofish · #7 12-21-2008, 10:14 PM

Thanks for the tip.
I went outside tonight and removed the nut, then tugged on the wheel a few times. I got it to budge about an 1/8", just enough to spray some PB Blaster on both sides and let it sit overnight.