DIY static outboard bracket

[spareparts]

Originally Posted by spareparts

remember also, you need lift, not necessarily set back, although set back requires less lift(rule of thumb is 2 inches set back covers one inch lift), I made a lift only bracket for a 70 by using two pieces of angle aluminum, I used the original mounting holes in the transom to mount the aluminum angle use flat head bolts so they fit flush), and drilled new holes thru the angle and transom for the engine mounting bolts. The top bolts were not supported by the transom, they only went thru the angle, the bottom bolts went thru the angle and hte transom

sorry, I did word that screwed up, Smoke explained it better than I did, you get the idea. The further you go back, the higher you can run the engine

[RidgeRunner]

What fasteners do you use to keep from having dissimilar metals?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by RidgeRunner

What fasteners do you use to keep from having dissimilar metals?

Unfortunately, that's one of the conundrums of boat building. The bolts of choice are Stainless Steel because of their strength and corrosion resistance. But, they are dissimilar to the Aluminum that the outboard engine is made of. That's where the use of sacrificial zincs comes in. Just remember that the less dissimilar metal there is, the less potential there is for galvanic corrosion.

[peiserma]

Thanks a bunch, you've given me enough to go on for now. I really appreciate it. I'll see what 1/2" angle costs locally, take some measurements of transom and motor, then sketch up some plans. I will post the sketch for final input and recommendations for the proper height. Will need until next week.

Last question before I hide in the mad scientist cave to sketch up my plans: if i use 3" x 3" angle 1/2" thick, setback will be around 4". Using the 2" setback = 1" of lift rule, that equals 2". So I should plan to raise the motor 3" (recall it is a 20" transom and a 25" motor) in relation to my old one?

[smokeonthewater]

the math here would net you 7" BUT instead of just assuming you need to measure from the keel to the top of the transom and from the anti vent plate on the motor to the bottom of the transom hooks.......
Understand that you will set only your lowest possible height here so build to put the anti vent plate 1" below the expected desired height... in this case since you expect to need it 2" above the keel you would aim for a minimum of 1" above the keel.... Then you can raise the motor one hole at a time till you get the best performance.


example: if your motor shaft is actually 26" and your transom is actually 19 then you would need 9" -1" for a total of 8"

[peiserma]

Originally Posted by garagenc

Inside I would use a full plate 1/4" thk across the transom to disburse the force on the transom. The plate should be a minimum of 4" larger than the distance across and above the outside area of the angle frame dimension.

Thanks for the detailed reply. I'll have to see what the local scrapyard has for stainless angles. Its not inexpensive.

I assume the inside plate can be aluminum since it's basically funtioning like a giant washer. Would you think that a 6" or 8" square plate for each of the bolts would serve nearly as well, or would you stick with your recommendation of a giant plate? I think an 18" 6061 aluminum plate 1/4" thick can be had for around $40.

The old motor was bolted to the transom with 4 bolts. OK to bolt bracket to transom using just these four?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by peiserma

I assume the inside plate can be aluminum since it's basically funtioning like a giant washer. Would you think that a 6" or 8" square plate for each of the bolts would serve nearly as well, or would you stick with your recommendation of a giant plate? I think an 18" 6061 aluminum plate 1/4" thick can be had for around $40.

NOoooo If you use Stainless Steel for one side of the bracket and Aluminum for the other you'll have two dissimilar metals and that will result in galvanic corrosion. Whatever metal you make one side of the bracket from you must make the other side of the bracket from also. Personally I would recommend using 1/2" thick Anodized Aluminum for the bracket since your engine is made of Aluminum also, and you want to keep all metals as close to the same as possible.

Originally Posted by Peiserma

The old motor was bolted to the transom with 4 bolts. OK to bolt bracket to transom using just these four?

Yes. The original holes will do just fine for the inside part of the bracket.