Cap is off - Page 2

jasoncooperpcola · #1 10-01-2012, 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kracker Jack

Jason I have all the confidence in the world that you can repair that hole. The internet and YouTube and other boat sites will tell you all the info you need to do a progressive patch on that spot. Can you acess the inside of that repair or only the outside?

i can get to both the inside and outside. its just one of those things that i would feel paranoid about everytime i wet the boat lol . My West Systems book has a few different methods to repair it. I am leaning towards dishing out BOTH sides at an 8:1 ratio then doing an entire wet layup for the most strength. The V always had a wet bilge I just thought it was water leaking thru the floor livewell, either way it was a surprise to see water dripping like that from the pickup. Still trying to decide on epoxy or polyester resin. I will repair this hole with epoxy just for piece of mind. might even get some carbon fiber cloth to use in it

jasoncooperpcola · #2 10-01-2012, 09:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

glassing the bottom is no worse than glassing anything else BUT if you for some reason don't want to then seal it up with a new thruhull and 5200 then plug it with a bronze pipe cap or a bushing and a bull plug.... my montecarlo had 4... 3 'ducers and 1 speed temp when I got it.... I put 1 'ducer in w speed temp built in and plugged all 3 of the others this way.

This also leaves you a place to hook up a raw water washdown in the future.

Smoke, the location of this hole is in a bad spot. Hard to access, and it is almost against a stringer. Not to mention I dont want any more holes in the bottom than I need. I was hoping to mount a high speed pickup on the bottom towards the stern. The way i plan to build the transom area i will have tons of access there for a livewell and saltwater washdown connections.

smokeonthewater · #3 10-01-2012, 10:30 PM

I highly recommend use epoxy resin.... MUCH 'gooder' and much harder to screw up.
IMHO it is well worth the extra expense.

tartuffe · #4 10-03-2012, 03:24 PM

With regard to your boat pulling hard to starboard, that has more to do with your trim tab (behind the prop) not being adjusted correctly. I can turn my boat with one finger to port while it takes my entire hand with some muscle to go to starboard. My trim tab is boogered up so it cannot be properly adjusted.

jasoncooperpcola · #5 10-05-2012, 12:48 PM

Got the cuddy liner out. It is not going back in. I can do better than that...... I hope. I have hammer tested everywhere in the boat. The only solid member left is the piece in the bow that is v shaped. So everything will have to come out.

reelapeelin · #6 10-06-2012, 02:24 PM

Jason that's some GREAT WORK!...that's just what my '84 needs...I'm surprised to see that much foam!...as ya put it all back anticipating bigger HP, just remember you can put it back STRONGER no doubt...but more weight is more weight and it may tend to squat w/too much.

So yer gonna rebuild inside of cuddy from scratch?...and if yer gonna leave out the floor well, can you move the bulkhead forward and go w/a bigger (longer) fuel tank?...

jasoncooperpcola · #7 10-07-2012, 10:39 AM

Reel that is my plan. I want to go to a 100 gallon fuel tank. Should be 2/3rds longer than the stock tank. I could not believe how good of condition my tank was. I am still debating tank placement. It seems my floor is good in the cap so I almost want to keep the tank in the rear just because I have the access to it. I thought the cuddy top deck was rotted out, its not. One of the supporting members that runs all the way across in front of the slide had broke loose. I discovered that when I pulled the carpet out. I am also pondering a pilot house build and worried about too much forward weight if I move the fuel tank forwards. When I stick it all back together the cap is getting glassed to the hull. I was quite suprised too about the foam in her. I thought that someone on here said they only sprayed around the edges of the cap from the rodboxes?

jasoncooperpcola · #8 10-21-2012, 12:43 PM

Got a little free time and removed the glass over the transom core. I think for its age the transom is in ok shape. I was expecting worse. But the only bad areas are where holes were drilled. Yet the top engine mount holes had no soft. Trying to remove the plywood now.

Here are a few pics. Notice how much was cut off the stringers where they attach to the transom. And still trying to figure out the hole above the bilge plug hole.

jasoncooperpcola · #9 10-21-2012, 01:05 PM

My transom core is in three pieces each two layers of plywood. So far its all wet. Got one layer off the port side.

jasoncooperpcola · #10 01-18-2013, 06:37 PM

Question. My cap has a section by the helm on each side where it steps out about three inches and is about thirty inches tall and about thirty six inches long. Is this to allow clearance for the curve in the hull? I want to remove it.