notched transom OR jackplate ?

[pancake]

Ok i have a 1984 20 Fisherman with a 2001 150 hpdi yamaha currently installed on a 20" notched transom . I wanted to raise the motor with a manual CMC jackplate but it looks like i may have steering cable issues, so is the best way to get the 5 " increase i need to get the motor out of the salt water is to fill in the notch area which would increase its height 5".

Can someone tell me how you can fill in the notched area? Do i have to rebuild the transom with new plywood?

[RidgeRunner]

There you are. I responded in Chomper's post.
Is your motor a 20" shaft or 25" shaft?

[macojoe]

Jack plate is the easiest way to go. what are the steering issues?? you might have to drill a new hole higher up and cover the old one to get the cable stright across.

[pancake]

i'll be honest ,i've never measured the motor and am guessing it is a 25" shaft. I've owned the fisherman for 3 years and just now realized that the real problem is the 5" notch i have back there. I thought all wellcrafts had that notch and now realize some folks have been fillling in that area when they rebuild the transom to raise the motor The Reason i wanted to raise the motor height with a jackplate was to get the motor (bottom part of trim pump and hyd actuator are submerged ) when raised out of the salt water while in the boat slip for 7 months to reduce corrosion.

with a jackplate installation i am wondering if i would have a steering cable binding as it exits the back? are most installers just redrilling/ rerouting the steering cable?

by the way, i've used the boat and have never even considered a wave over the stern a issue till i read all the posts.

[RidgeRunner]

Look at the model# on the motor L=20" XL=25" XXL=30"
I understand what you want to accomplish and the jack plate will work fine. Re routing the cable may be easy as pie as MJ said but I would definitely verify that it will work before committing any $$$ to a jack plate. You may need to drill a hole in the transom and route the steering over to the motor with 6" of setback. Don't forget all the wires, hoses steering cable, throttle and shift must be at least 6" longer for the setback plus there must be enough slack for everyone to go up another 5 or 6" as the motor gets jacked up and tilted up.

[pancake]

i will have to look later, the boat is 30 miles away sleeping for the winter. the yamaha is a 2001 HPDI 150 HP 2 stroke, model number is z150tlrz on a 1984 20' fisherman center console. i guess it may be a 20" shaft according to you, ridge runner: Look at the model# on the motor L=20" XL=25" XXL=30"

Your advice below concerning this stuff what i was contemplating:

Don't forget all the wires, hoses steering cable, throttle and shift must be at least 6" longer for the setback plus there must be enough slack for everyone to go up another 5 or 6" as the motor gets jacked up and tilted up.

[pancake]

i installed it last week, and will test next week wx permitting. i had to reroute the manual steering cable thru another hole which was drilled a little higher in the back. it went thru but was not easy, it would help to have a longer steering cable. the next issue i have are the nuts which lower and raise the cmc manual unit on the jack screw come loose sometimes. any one else have this problem?

likeyou said BLU LUNCH it would probably have been easier to install the steering cable then mount the whole assembly . i almost was not able to get it to go back in.

[Blu_Lunch]

Like I said I bought a cable a foot longer, and I never had a issue with the nuts backing off there is a required torque on those nuts, I have the same plate as you..........

[Blu_Lunch]

I found my instructions those 4 side bolts and nuts are to be torqued at 100 foot Lbs. and rechecked after you first time out...........

[Blu_Lunch]

I copied the page you want for yours