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  #1  
Unread 09-01-2008, 04:55 PM
Fishy McGee Fishy McGee is offline
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Default WOT Chevy 350 4BM??

I've replaced the 305 in my 79 V-20 W/OMC 800 with an S&S remanufactured Chevy marine 350 with 4 bolt mains. I haven't been able to get a straight answer from anyone at S&S as to what WOT should be(I think I'm talking to counter sales people without a clue). I'm trying to size a prop and don't know what my WOT RPM's should be. Anybody out there in V-20 land have some info for me??? Please....Pretty Please......
Thanks
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  #2  
Unread 09-01-2008, 05:03 PM
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It really depends on which 350 you have. The early style 350's that used the valve cover bolts going around the outside of the valve cover should hit around 4,000-4,400 WOT. The 86-95's with the center bolt valve covers but non vortec heads should run anywhere from 4,200-4,600(some went to 4,800 depending upon which heads and cam). And most of the vortec engines should run from around 4,500-4,800, and the later MPI's went up to 5,000 or 5,200. These numbers are just rough numbers as drive combos and engine combos can affect the WOT range.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

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  #3  
Unread 09-01-2008, 05:35 PM
Fishy McGee Fishy McGee is offline
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Thanks. I guess it's the older model. Valve cover bolts are on the outside. I was under the impression that the 4bolt main was a higher reving engine. Also, how far from "red line" is "WOT"? They are different right?
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  #4  
Unread 09-01-2008, 06:17 PM
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WOT is the max RPM's you can reach. Red line on an old style 350 would probably be around 5,000-5,500 RPM's. I would not reccomend runing it there for any length of time though. If it were mine I would prop it to run at 4,300-4,400 max RPM's with a light to moderate load. And most all of the marine engines are 4 bolt main blocks. The marine engines were normally modified truck engines, and most of the heavy truck blocks were 4 bolt main blocks. The real low HP engines would have been 2 bolt main blocks, but most anything over 230HP would be a 4 bolt main.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #5  
Unread 09-01-2008, 06:33 PM
Fishy McGee Fishy McGee is offline
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Hey man, thanks for the info. 4400 sounds safe to me too, so that's what it'll be. Zephyrhills Fl?? My buddy just moved back here from New Tampa....Beautiful area down there...and no witerizing!
Thanks again
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  #6  
Unread 09-01-2008, 07:18 PM
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Yep, just north of TAMPA, the big SH!TY. I remember back when TAMPA was just another city, about 25 miles away. Now you can't tell where TAMPA ends and we begin.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664
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  #7  
Unread 09-02-2008, 12:38 PM
Fishy McGee Fishy McGee is offline
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Yea, does seem like one really big suburb down there, but I'm used to that I'm in Northern Virginia/ Metro D.C. one big f'ing cluster f*@k
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  #8  
Unread 09-02-2008, 03:18 PM
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for what it maters, Ferm nailed the rpm specs on those motors. I prefered to let them turn a little on the high side of the rpm spec, alot depends on how you run the boat
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  #9  
Unread 09-02-2008, 05:02 PM
Fishy McGee Fishy McGee is offline
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Thanks to both of you guys for all the advice. I really appreciate it. My boat usage is probably 70% fishing(a lot of trolling ) and 30% tubeing/skiing. 70% salt/bay/in-shore and 30% fresh lake/river. I got the boat(79') and trailer(2004) for free. I've got about 2k into it including the motor. It's in the shop right now getting new lower shift cables and ball gears(too complicated for my taste) wich is going to be right around another 2k. Structurely the boat is sound, needs some attention on little stuff here and there, but what boat doesn't. I just hope I'm not throwing good money after bad, but 4-5k for a solid V20 with a fresh 350 doesn't sound bad to me.....Am I wrong. It's my first boat so I could be way off base for all I know. Again thanks for all the advice.
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  #10  
Unread 09-03-2008, 06:34 AM
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biggest issue you're going to have is with that outdrive. Those old stringer drives were marginal when they were brand new. If you really like the boat, keep your eye out for a damaged boat(cheap) with a Mercruiser(cheaper, more available) or Volvo( stronger but more$) complete drive set up. Keep in mind that the transom will have to be redone to accomodate a different drive. Several people have ditched the drive all together and gone with a bracket and outboard. the choice is up to you. Its probably cheaper in the long run to buy another boat with the right set up to begin with, but not many people on this site do things the normal or sensable way(we'd buy a newer boat if we had any sense). That drive is going to break sooner or later, they haven't made parts for it since the early 80's. For the 2 grand you are putting inot it right now, I'd be looking at other options. 2 grand isn't going to get it done, but it would be a good start
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