My "Free Boat" project

[spareparts]

never had any luck getting resin to stick to treated, just allways used forming grade playwood, its one step below marine, they use it to form concrete, sometimes you can find it at the super stores, usually has a red paint on the edge, can't remember the official name for it, but its exterior grade with a B/C finish. I allways thin my resin with acetone, you can go up to 1/4 acetone before it will cause the resin to not kick, you will have to mix it a little hot, the thined resin will penetrate the wood, giving a better bond, next time you have some uncut resin sitting around, mix it and paint a piece of ply with it, wait till the next day and smack it with a hammer, it usually will pop off in chunks, not what you want on you're floor

[LESTERUS]

FIREGUY, WELCOME TO THE SITE. I THINK 3/4" FORMING PLYWOOD WILL DO FINE.

AS FOR THE SEATS ARRANGEMENT, YOU COUL LOOK INTO THE GALLERIES AND SEE THE DIFFERENT VARIATIONS PEOPLE HAVE IN THERE.

LESTERUS

[bigshrimpin]

I don't recognize the boat as a wellcraft, but it's possible that it was built before 1970. 1972 was when all boats had to be titled, so it's possible that someone just made up the information and the boat got a homemade HIN like "FLZ".
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If you continue with this project you'll learn a valuable lesson about "free" boats. The work is rewarding, but you're going to piss off your wife/girlfriend with the mess, obsessing, and ammount of time you spend on the boat. It's a vicious downward spiral.
Whatever you do don't add up the ammout of time you spend working on it . . . b/c when you multiply that number by the minimum wage . . . you'll be really upset with yourself, because you could have easily bought a really nice boat.
When you add that number with the ammount of money you spent on acetone, mixing cup, rollers, new fuel tank, hoses, wiring, rigging, fiberglass resin and mat, roving, cloth, cabosil, microballons, qcell, gelcoat, paint, an entirely new wardrobe (b/c you ruin all your clothes) and rubber gloves . . . You'll cry.
It took me 3 boats to figure this out and I'm still in denial. It's fun, educational and rewarding, but unless that boat is what you really really want . . . my advice is to cut your loses now.

Yea, I know what you mean. A lot of the lakes around heare only allow 9.9 motors or electric. There are a few lakes in the area (very few) that have unlimeted HP. I'm still debating if I would get my money's worth out of this boat if I re-did it, or just say screw it, and only keep the trailer (That's all I really wanted in the first place).

[bigshrimpin]

You'll get $250 bucks easy selling off the chrysler outboard and the parts on that boat or even listing the entire boat (w/o trailer) for $250. If you do this a few times you'll be able to satisfy your emotional need to work on boats and make enough $$$ on the parts to buy the boat you really want.

Honestly . . . when you add up all the expenses (not even including any of the time) . . . The is no way you could come close to breaking even redoing that boat. Break your emotional ties to that project and ask yourself is this truely the boat that I want to spend the next 5 years of my life with . . . if the answer is "no" then lose it.

;)

[bigshrimpin]

To beat this dead horse . . . If the boat, motor, trailer combo were in perfect shape (i.e. fully restored) how much would you pay for it?

a. $1000
b. $2000
c. $3000

[Blue_Runner]

d. none of the above ;D

[bigshrimpin]

Originally Posted by spareparts

never had any luck getting resin to stick to treated, just always used forming grade plywood, its one step below marine, they use it to form concrete, sometimes you can find it at the super stores, usually has a red paint on the edge, can't remember the official name for it, but its exterior grade with a B/C finish.

Spares - I think your talking about MDO medium density overlay or HDO high density overlay. smooth paper face on one or two sides . . . I used MDO to raise my stringers 1.5" on a project (that I wish I never started). It was great stuff. A 4x8 of 3/4 cost me roughly $60 (typical west coast gouge).

[Hammerhead]

Originally Posted by thefireguy

Reel,
Yea, the wood in there only for walking. Sitll haven't figured out what kind of wood I'm gonna use. A friend of mine was saying 1/2" and put fiberglass over the edges, then seal it. If yall have any inputs let me know..

I replaced a soft deck on my Bonito using marine plywood fastened with SS screws and two part glue.( I used 1/2 ply) you may wanna use 5/8. I rolled a coat of two part polyester resin on the bottom side and edges before screwing it to the stringers,two layers of mat and cloth on the top with resin. For extra strenght I added two part foam under it by drilling 2" holes to allow for expansion. It's rock solid and takes a beating w/o any give.

Alright time for an update. I got the motor off the boat (After having to cut the motor bolts) and removed all the bolts in the transom (all of them snapped) and yep, you could probably guess, I need to replace the transom. There was dirt ( not wood) and a few roots. So I'm about halfway done with removing all of the old wood. A buddy of mine as saying that it isn't too hard to replace the wood. *I was going to float test, but before I could, *the wife said don't even think of going out and buying new wheels for the trailer. Christmas is in 2 weeks. (guess what I know what I'm getting for X-mas.... but like I said, I didn't pay a dime for it and it will definantly be good practice on repairs.