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#21
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The middle ones are where all of the positive accys should be connected... Pos from the battery should be on the other side of the fuses from them and the last strip is for all negative wires.
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#22
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WOW!!! you guys know a lot about boat wirirng!!!!
so yall will be here right after work tomorrow to help me rewire this thing, right?
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#23
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I have an air conditioned shop.... You come to me n bring pizza.
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#24
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that sounds like such a good idea smoke. too tired to cook, think ill order a pizza. meat lovers or bbq??? hmm, maybe just plain cheese
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#25
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Peperoni n xtra cheese
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#26
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Sorry guy but that doesn't make spence
You can't put the positive from the battery on all the left side screws Only one on the top and the ones under on the same side are for the accessories the middle ones are still empty the left is the ground, I would really like to see a pic of one hooked up correct
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#27
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I don't know why you keep saying left and right...the picture I see has "top, middle, and bottom"....
The long silver bar on top is the negative bus. You connect the neg battery and all neg (should be black) accessory wires. [ in the picture, they have incorrectly connect +12v to this bus bar] The long silver bar on the bottom is the positive bus. You connect the +12v feed from the battery (usually RED). IT SHOULD BE FUSED AT THE BATTERY. And I think in this picture the wire is not heavy enough to feed an accessory bus. That depends on what is connected and how far it is from the battery.[ in the picture, they have incorrectly connect negative battery to this bus bar] The LOADS in this picture are the orange wires. They should be connected to the middle screws. In that way, they will each get power thru their own fuse. In this picture, none of the loads are fused. They are connected directly to +12v. The fuses in this picture are not being used at all. Because they have the +12 and neg bus bars reversed, the fuses will never have power because they are connected to a Negative bus. It cannot be more wrong.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 06-16-2016 at 06:55 AM. |
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#28
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Quote:
Look at the pic with labels that skunkboat posted... If it still doesn't make sense to you then I'm sorry to say but you need to let someone else take care of your electrical system for you..... Not trying to be mean AT ALL..... just honest. |
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#29
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Had similar worries when I got my v. removed a lot of old wiring that went nowhere, cut off or cleaned up corroded ends, new terminals with heat shrink n seal and changed up from glass fuses to ato/atc fuses in a blue seas panel. The 12 Volt Bible For Boats (latest edition) was a help.
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#30
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energized that crappy system yesterday and went to testing. everything came on and worked except the anchor light. looked at and touched all th wires as best as i could, everywhere that i could. everything actually looked good and nothing was warm, except the anchor light hot wire. it was pretty warm. pulled those two wires. they were both black and very stiff, like automotive wire. sure enough, near the light on the hot wire was a connector where the wire had been spliced. could see corrosion and evidence of arcing. replaced those two with tinned wires. took a closer look at all other wiring and it all looks correct and in good shape. heading out there soon to install my blue seas fuse box, solder and heat shrink all connections and clean up the wire routing. then just add my gps, vhf, second bilge pump and a couple other acc and this phase of the project should be done by lunch tomorrow.
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