Boat seems to be missing 10 mph and 700 rpm

[THEFERMANATOR]

You CANNOT set the timing cranking the engine over. There is spark advance built into the ignition module that starts ramping up around 3000 RPM's till 5000 RPM's. The other problem is there is a 6 degree timing advance during cranking until the engine has run for 5 seconds and has reached roughly 120 degrees. You do not need a test wheel to set timing. If you can get it up to 4500 or so on a trailer, that is ALOT better than setting cranking. Not setting the timing right is a GUARANTEED way to burn that engine up. It calls for 18 degrees, if you go over 19.5 degrees, it WILL melt a piston. Even so much as 19 degrees is playing with fire. Most who set these engines up set them to 17-18 at 6000 RPM's. you're better at 17 degrees than 19 degrees. But if you set it to low, it will foul out, carbon the rings up, then you'll stick a ring, and BYE BYE cylinder(some ran at 14 degrees, but they were jetted for it, had MONSTER carbs on them, and were meant to run at 5000+ for sustained periods of time). Get your timing set correctly before you go any furthur unless you want to be buying a new engine. You're playing with fire, and it WILL burn you here.

[Striper80]

My boat has a cdi power pack on it. I thought with this one you were able to set the timing cranking by removing the plugs, grounding the plug wires, using a spark tester, removing and grounding the temp sensor wire, and backing it off by 4* total advance? I'm going to either take it to a mechanic to have them set it or do it at the ramp.
I originally took it to the ramp near my house to set it but the tide was too low to run it on the trailer without dunking my truck. Now the boat is at my marina and the ramp is steep and slippery so I'm not too keen about doing it there. I'm not too keen on paying $145 minimum to the mechanic either. Hey we all have to make a living, but I hate having anyone touch my stuff.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Striper80

My boat has a cdi power pack on it. I thought with this one you were able to set the timing cranking by removing the plugs, grounding the plug wires, using a spark tester, removing and grounding the temp sensor wire, and backing it off by 4* total advance? I'm going to either take it to a mechanic to have them set it or do it at the ramp.
I originally took it to the ramp near my house to set it but the tide was too low to run it on the trailer without dunking my truck. Now the boat is at my marina and the ramp is steep and slippery so I'm not too keen about doing it there. I'm not too keen on paying $145 minimum to the mechanic either. Hey we all have to make a living, but I hate having anyone touch my stuff.

You can ONLY set the timing with the engine running. It needs to be fairlyclose to 5K RPM's for it to be accurate. Wot timing will have no bearing on idle timing, so if that is off you will need to set the idle timing. Also keep in mind the fuel mixturemust also be adjusted to get idle speed correct as 95+ has adjustable carbs.

[Striper80]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

You can ONLY set the timing with the engine running. It needs to be fairlyclose to 5K RPM's for it to be accurate. Wot timing will have no bearing on idle timing, so if that is off you will need to set the idle timing. Also keep in mind the fuel mixturemust also be adjusted to get idle speed correct as 95+ has adjustable carbs.

I thought only the adjustment was the low speed mixture? Isn't WOT handled by jetting?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by Striper80

I thought only the adjustment was the low speed mixture? Isn't WOT handled by jetting?

Wot fuel mixture is handled by jetting. The carbs are adjustable for low speed mixture which can effect idle speed. I was talking about the timing only being able to be set with the engine at 5K rpms. If you can only get to say 4500, then set it to 16-17 as it will advance some with more RPM's. Timing is probably the most critical aspect to that engine, and it must be set at the correct rpm's, with a good light, and you need to be certain the pointer is dead on tdc as well. I've seen alot of these engines come back from supposed top shops running like crap because they didn't set the timing correctly, so they set it low to be safe.

[Striper80]

So I went to the boat yesterday to set the timing. I started out by checking that the throttle blades were opening all the way and I saw that cyl 7 wasn't opening. The set screw was pretty tight nut not tight enough. Not sure how long it's been like this, I checked it last year when I did the link and sync. The linkage was full of slop when I did it.
i wanted to set the timing but it didn't work out. The tide was low and my ramp is extremely slippery at low tide, a lot of trucks have slid in over the years at AHMM. I tried backing down just till the engine was submerged and chocked my truck wheels. I fired it up and let it warm. When I tried to refit up in gear it really bit in and I didn't feel comfortable with how much movement I was getting at 2000rpm so I aborted. Doesn't help that my 4wd only works in auto right now but the boat comes first. Hopefully one of the 2 evinrude shops can get me in this week.

[Striper80]

The mechanic set the timing today. He said it was at full advance and I was lucky not to melt the pistons. Hopefully I'll get to test it this weekend.
Edit: I picked the boat up today and hope to run it tomorrow. Mechanic said it was 15 degrees advanced from where it should be. He said it sounded strong and spun right up. I'm itching to test it. I have two birthday parties to go to today so hopefully tomorrow.

[Striper80]

Had the boat out today with the family. It felt more responsive at part throttle but, I couldn't open it up because my son wasn't really enjoying it.
When I came in and was docking, the boat stalled twice when going from reverse to forward. Also since I was loading by myself I had to powerload the boat. As soon as I tried to get it on the trailer it stalled. When I pushed the key in it stayed running and went right up.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by Striper80

Had the boat out today with the family. It felt more responsive at part throttle but, I couldn't open it up because my son wasn't really enjoying it.
When I came in and was docking, the boat stalled twice when going from reverse to forward. Also since I was loading by myself I had to powerload the boat. As soon as I tried to get it on the trailer it stalled. When I pushed the key in it stayed running and went right up.

My advice is twofold.
1) Take it back to the mechanic that set your timing nd tell him what happened. Obviously he did not do his job right and it needs to be corrected.
2) Get yourself an electric winch for your boat. I'm partial to Powerwinches, but there are many good brands on the market, including the ones from Harbor Freight. That way you won't have to powerload your boat and you can guide it onto your trailer. My Powerwinch is the older kind that I have to use a lanyard to turn the winch on while I'm standing at the rear of the trailer guiding, but the newer ones have a wireless remote control. Either way it's a lot easier and makes one man loading an easy job.

[Striper80]

Update
I took the boat out yesterday and it ran pretty much the same as it did before taking it to have the timing set and fixing the carb linkage. It was a little windier yesterday so I couldn't hit WOT for too long but I hit 30 kts at about 5k rpms. I have a new old tach on its way because I'm sure mine is off. The shop that set the timing was recommended to me by quite a few people. The prop was definitely removed to install a test wheel and my boat was definitely put in the water. I guess if the timing was too far advanced I should've expected to lose some power.