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  #11  
Unread 02-23-2014, 02:59 AM
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By the way guys just wanted to let you all know, bought the boat next day went out for sea trial. start it up first crank it jumped to life, then ran almost a mile at WOT Then died like I turned off the key. feeling guilty that maybe I should have drained gas, and started new. by the way almost 3 a.m. Here in Florida had a few to drink !!!
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  #12  
Unread 02-23-2014, 10:09 AM
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Compression should be roughly 140-150 for a 140 looper. Small bore and big bore V4's both ran pretty high compression. Most likely you put the screws to it with bad fuel and leaned it out. Loopers HATE being run lean, and will smear the pistons in a HURRY. It only takes an overheat for about 15 seconds to smear a piston in one. They are AWESOME engines when setup and running right, but one little problem and they will self destruct in a matter of seconds. The T-stats and bypass valve can also cause this to happen. You want the engien to idle at about 150-170 degrees, but at WOT you want it to drop back to about 125 to keep from sticking a piston.
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  #13  
Unread 02-23-2014, 10:27 AM
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Ferm and Skools Out are the looper experts around here.But sounds like your motor is dead. If you want to eliminate another variable, try your compression tester in another engine to make sure its reading correctly or try another compression tester on your engine. Next step, pull the heads and take a look.
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  #14  
Unread 02-23-2014, 01:29 PM
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opened it up walls of the cylinder are very scored. here is a picture. looks like motor was never properly flushed out heavy corrosion.
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  #15  
Unread 02-23-2014, 04:27 PM
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actually corrosion doesn't look that bad for a 20 something year old engine ran in salt water.
just one scored cyl or were they all harmed? are you sure the gas had oil in it?
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  #16  
Unread 02-23-2014, 05:31 PM
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the Pistons walls were just scored not hammered not sure if the previous owner had oil in it I know the VRO was disconnected and he said he was using Mix
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  #17  
Unread 02-23-2014, 06:49 PM
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thats melted aluminum from the piston stuck to the walls of the cylinder
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  #18  
Unread 02-23-2014, 07:38 PM
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spare, is that lack of oil or overheat?
shurlock, i said harmed, not hammered, was wondering if all cyl looked the same
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  #19  
Unread 02-23-2014, 08:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phatdaddy View Post
spare, is that lack of oil or overheat?
shurlock, i said harmed, not hammered, was wondering if all cyl looked the same
Look at the pistom dome, that engine LEANED OUT BAD! theres not even a trace of black carbon or soot on it. A looper should always have some sort of soot on the piston dome when they are jetted to live, and there should be some traces of wetness.

Looking at your pics it looks like a small bore engine which were ALWAYS prone to overheating due to there design. Where are you located at?
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR

2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD

AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P.
http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664

Last edited by THEFERMANATOR; 02-23-2014 at 09:06 PM.
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  #20  
Unread 02-23-2014, 09:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR View Post
Look at the pistom dome, that engine LEANED OUT BAD! theres not even a trace of black carbon or soot on it. A looper should always have some sort of soot on the piston dome when they are jetted to live, and there should be some traces of wetness.

Looking at your pics it looks like a small bore engine which were ALWAYS prone to overheating due to there design. Where are you located at?
what he said
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