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#1
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those parts skunk listed will work fine. Mercruiser uses a 90 amp fuse to the accessory feed on sterndrives. Most older outboard boats i work on aren't fused at all. I believe(IIRC) USCG requires a fuse within 18 inches of the power feed. SO its always a good idea to use a fuse or a breaker coming out of the battery switch. Like Skunk said, the face mount breakers can be used as a switch. I prefer not to use that type in this application as they can be tripped easy unintentionally( they do have their place). I prefer fuses as I keep a box of spare fuses on board, you get a bad breaker, you're stuck. I can feed it fuses of increasing size till I'm at the dock where I can do a more permanent repair.
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#2
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That’s almost identical to the box I ordered from eBay, except for $30 less. Grabbed some wiring from Home Depot and couldn’t believe what they’re getting for wire these days. Last time I bought wiring was when I rewired my old VEGA. Pretty much have what I need except decent weather. All I need now is time, youth and something to pull the dam thing with. I’ll keep you guys posted.
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hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#3
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I would recommend NOT using Home Depot wire. Use marine grade "Tinned" stranded copper wire.
And absolutely NEVER use solid wire.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#4
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And in the salt, corrosion will a huge issue. I use marine wire and waterproof crimp connectors - then when you’ve tightened the nut on the connector, soak it with a good rust barrier like Boeshield or Corrosion-X. There’s no need to have bad connections from corrosion.
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#5
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Home Depot sells Ancor tinned wire,so hopefully charlie made a wise choice
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