![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
#8 red for the main hot from the battery switch to the fuse block. You need to be able to cut it off. #8 black from the negative terminal to the ground buss on the fuse panel. Using #8 will allow you to add more stuff later on. #14 wire will be fine for all of your accessories. Number 16 on real low amperage stuff<10 amps. Using a ground buss bar behind the dash and at the transom will save you a lot of black wire, and it should make it easier to diagnose a problem if you have one.
|
|
#2
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ok, if I run a circuit breaker in-line hot wire, how many amps?
Or should I just rely on the fuse block?
__________________
hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
get one of these. Put it in a dry accessible place behind the dash.
run the 8awg black and red to it.. 8/2 awg duplex will simplify the job. https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Syst...ps%2C68&sr=8-3 https://www.amazon.com/Lawrence-Mari...ps%2C55&sr=8-4 The Red wire has to be fused or have a 30A circuit breaker near the battery. If you use a surface mount 30A Bussman 185 type breaker it can be used as an on/off switch also. or... You could use an MRBF battery terminal 30A block fuse
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
those parts skunk listed will work fine. Mercruiser uses a 90 amp fuse to the accessory feed on sterndrives. Most older outboard boats i work on aren't fused at all. I believe(IIRC) USCG requires a fuse within 18 inches of the power feed. SO its always a good idea to use a fuse or a breaker coming out of the battery switch. Like Skunk said, the face mount breakers can be used as a switch. I prefer not to use that type in this application as they can be tripped easy unintentionally( they do have their place). I prefer fuses as I keep a box of spare fuses on board, you get a bad breaker, you're stuck. I can feed it fuses of increasing size till I'm at the dock where I can do a more permanent repair.
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
That’s almost identical to the box I ordered from eBay, except for $30 less. Grabbed some wiring from Home Depot and couldn’t believe what they’re getting for wire these days. Last time I bought wiring was when I rewired my old VEGA. Pretty much have what I need except decent weather. All I need now is time, youth and something to pull the dam thing with. I’ll keep you guys posted.
__________________
hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
I would recommend NOT using Home Depot wire. Use marine grade "Tinned" stranded copper wire.
And absolutely NEVER use solid wire.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
And in the salt, corrosion will a huge issue. I use marine wire and waterproof crimp connectors - then when you’ve tightened the nut on the connector, soak it with a good rust barrier like Boeshield or Corrosion-X. There’s no need to have bad connections from corrosion.
__________________
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|