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#1
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Hello All, Sorry for the slow responses here. As you note above I had quite an adventurous time last week ..... LOL .Anyways, here are some of the plans and welcome any suggestions. So far i have :
![]() Much obliged for everyone's help and comments thus far. Cheers Ashok |
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#2
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Intuitively, the roller would bear the vertical vector force and the cleat the horizontal. If you’re not in much of a current, those forces shouldn’t be much of an issue. Out here in the Columbia River it’s a very big deal - an anchor rope fouled in the propeller, so the boat is anchored at the stern can and has sunk boats.
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#3
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Current can be a bit of an issue in the Bay here, depending on where and when I guess. Thanks so I guess I should plan on the roller bearing forces. so the chucks in the side won't be used anymore i guess, just the bow cleat. Much obliged, Cheers Ashok |
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#4
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In the river here, the Salmon and Steelhead tend to travel in very narrow seams, almost single file. We use the chucks or sometimes a short line off the chuck or bow rail stanchion to pull the anchor line off center to angle the boat and move it a little sideways, trying to position over the lane the fish are using to run upstream. Maybe not so useful in the bay???
That requires lifting the line off the roller - if you’re doing that, you’ll need to remove the loop over the top of the line on the roller device.
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#5
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Great to know! I'm learning a ton! Thank you. |
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#6
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I put it next to the pivoting roller and cleat. It is big enough to pass chain.
I cut a hole into the bow anchor locker and siliconed in a piece of 4" landscape drain pipe. The rode comes out on its own from the weight of the anchor/chain falling. I hauled the rode onto the deck. If I was moving around I kept it on deck. Deploying and hauling could be done standing in the open sliding hatch. Sometimes I even hauled it from way back on the main deck with the window open and laid the rode on the main deck. When done for the day I hauled it below by hand thru the pipe down in the cabin. That kept the cabin clear of a basket of line. 3/8" 3 strand. 1/4" chain Before I had the deck pipe I ran it under the windshield, under the sliding hatch and into the cabin. I could actually have line there and still lock the hatch.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 01-25-2022 at 01:02 PM. |
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#7
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I think it is a solid choice, and while it may be overkill, I've anchored in some very strong rips (to fish) where the current was probably going 10 knots or so... no exageration.... so I'd rather have too much holding power than risk breaking loose. I got 300' of 1/2" of the same rope you selected. I like it.. so far... but it is heavy when wet, and it *does* take up a lot of space. Regarding bow rollers. I think the pivoting one is better. The pivot helps with deploying and retrieving... Plus at least one of the non-pivoting rollers you listed is 304 stainless steel. I've read that 312 stainless stands up to salt water better, and I *believe* that the pivoting ahcnor roller is 312 SS, but I'm not 100% certain. |
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