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#1
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I've said it before in other transom threads but a viable shortcut would be to expose only the top edge of the transom at the motor cutout. Then use the chain saw to remove as much wood as you can reach. Try really hard to clean the inside of the hollowed out transom, block all holes and then pour 2 buckets of Carbon Core.
This would skip the hard part of cutting the cap and removing the motor well. I recommend CarbonCore over Seacast because it really pours and leaves no air pockets.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#2
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Quote:
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#3
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Quote:
I think there may be a way of removing just the motor well to get enough access to get some of the inside skin off and grind. Hopefully I'll never do a transom again!
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#4
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Well I did a few videos on my water damaged transom, using the hammer, drill, and moisture meter. It is showing sighs of water damage near top of motor well area , topside near rear of both storage doors, and in other areas.
Below are the you tube links, . https://youtu.be/YR1I62BBfe4 https://youtu.be/FL5F1lgtxTo https://youtu.be/3BPXg67UTYQ Last edited by jetblue319; 03-11-2019 at 01:49 PM. Reason: Adding link |
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#5
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The wood that came out was brown not black ...good.
As best as I can tell it may be wet at the top edge. Again...they are all wet there...If the glass is separating from the wood its a problem. I would cut that top edge off where the motor mounts and look at the wood and see if the skin is separated from the wood. Its a tough call. Its your call. Did you ever stand on the motor when it was in place? If the transom didn't flex, I would glass over the top edge, mount the motor with a transom saver and go fishing.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#6
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Well I finally got a chance to work on my transom. I cut it just like shunkwork's video, and it was rotted in the centers so far. Have to work on it some more tomorrow.
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#7
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notice in the second picture how it is 2 pieces coming together on an angle. It does the same on the port side. So you see the transom is not one big flat piece of plywood.
I still can't tell from the pix if its shot. Mine was soft in the corners and I panicked but after tearing it apart I saw it was pretty solid down a few inches. Thats going to be your call. If you go ahead, consider limiting your cuts to the motor well and not go into the hatch openings like I did. You might find you have enough room to remove much of the inside skin.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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