Transom repair???

[3 Squids]

At the very least I’d do a thump test and see if you can pinpoint the severity of it. Tapping on it with a hammer you will get 2 very different sounds from wet and dry wood. Dry wood will be a sharp, crisp crack when you hit it. Hit it high on the transom to get used to this sound. When you find moisture it will be a dull thud. Where you’re putting tabs I’d assume if it isn’t from a previous transducer it’s probably where the stringers meet. If this is the case if it doesn’t seem to be very far spread I’d say just recheck for flex regularly and run it.

Don’t cut your outer skin off. Don’t ask me how I know. It’s possible on many boats but as skunk said these transoms are in 3 pieces and there’s no way to recreate the shape and have the skin fit properly. Might look “ok” but it wouldn’t be 100% bonded and solid. Skunks pour method is the way to go but if you’re not getting flex I would try to get a couple more years out her.

[phatdaddy]

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/assets/...aintenance.pdf

This is a pretty good how to book for basic glass work

If i was going to do a transom, I d do skunk s pour methoud and try to address the stringers as well. To do that your talking about cutting off the aft section of the cap or total removal.

That link is not working, look in the link section of this site on the second page, bradford posted it under fiberglass repair

[jetblue319]

thanks everyone , will look into skunkwork's method, i seen that a few times on you tube. and trying to see what materials i will need. boats in storage, will do thump check when i get over there. will get back to you all when i start thanks again
jet

[randlemanboater]

I drilled a hole for a transducer one time on the V, water came out and I was devastated. Then I looked inside the bilge and saw that the hole I drilled was below where the wood ended, through solid glass...the water had come from inside the boat.

Something to check.

[cfelton]

Follow Skunks advise, don't cut the outer skin! The hull can twist and change its shape. I had to redo mine back in 06, cut it all out from the inside. Went back with marine plywood and polyester resin I got from Carolina Classic nearby. Turned out great, rock solid! No trouble since but I keep it wrapped up under a shed.

[SkunkBoat]

I've said it before in other transom threads but a viable shortcut would be to expose only the top edge of the transom at the motor cutout. Then use the chain saw to remove as much wood as you can reach. Try really hard to clean the inside of the hollowed out transom, block all holes and then pour 2 buckets of Carbon Core.

This would skip the hard part of cutting the cap and removing the motor well.

I recommend CarbonCore over Seacast because it really pours and leaves no air pockets.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

I've said it before in other transom threads but a viable shortcut would be to expose only the top edge of the transom at the motor cutout. Then use the chain saw to remove as much wood as you can reach. Try really hard to clean the inside of the hollowed out transom, block all holes and then pour 2 buckets of Carbon Core.

This would skip the hard part of cutting the cap and removing the motor well.

I recommend CarbonCore over Seacast because it really pours and leaves no air pockets.

Every one I've seen done this way ended up having the skin seperate from the core because the remaining wood on the skin tore free. I have nothing against the pourables, but the chainsaw method doesn't clean them the surface enough to get a proper long term bond IMHO.