Repower Prop question

[thebottomfish]

I'm in Ramsey, the boat will be in Brick next week(hopefully) but if you'd be willing, that would be a real help I can always come to you, if it's something you'd really consider, PM me and hopefully we can work something out
Thanks!

[Destroyer]

Let me check stock, but assuming you come down 287 on your way to Brick if you stop off the Montville exit I'm pretty sure I can meet you with a few different loaners for you to try.

[THEFERMANATOR]

17 pitch stainless 3 blade in around a 13 1/2" diameter would be my reccomendation. If you step up to a 15" prop, drop down to a 15 pitch. That's a lower rpm looper, iirc wot should be 5000-5500 on it(or 5600 since it's a 175hp). I think a 19 pitch is going to be too much pitch for it. Another prop I would seriously look at would be the michigan wheel stainless 4 blade prop in a 16 pitch. They hook up very well with very low prop slippage, plane quickly, and bite hard at cruise to increase cruising speeds. Solas also makes some good cheap props. Stainless or aluminum is a choice of your budget and how you boat. If you boat where there is a good chance of you hitting something, I reccomend aluminum. It's cheaper to carry a spare prop than it is to bend a prop shaft. If you boat in open waters and can afford, I would strongly reccomend stainless.

[thebottomfish]

Thanks Ferminator, I'm just wondering if you meant 14.5" diameter, I'm having a hard time finding any 13.5" props for this motor, I know that's what I had on my old looper but it was a 13 spline.
I actually got a 4 blade solas for my last motor and I really liked it, I know I'm going to get one for this motor but I want to get a nice 3 blade stainless first I think.
I do run barnegat Bay so I'll scrape Sand or much every once in awhile but I almost feel I'd be better off with stainless in that regards... Instead of buggering up aluminum the stainless should be fine, it's just drift wood and any hard ground I'd really have to watch out for with a stainless prop... Right? Or will dragging a stainless through the mud be enough to hurt the gear case?

Destroyer I'll probably take the boat down at an odd ball time this week but maybe this upcoming weekend I could work something out with you and the props to test

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yes, a 14-14.5" diameter. I was thinking higher pitches where diameter goes down. 17 is the generally accepted starting pitch for a 150-175 hp 2 stroke from those that run them on these hulls. Stainless does good in silty muddy water where aluminum where get eroded and worn away in no time. If you boat where you have a good chance of hitting rocks, oysters, or logs, then I reccomend aluminum. I know some say to run a stainless because the prop will hold up, but I've seen WAY too many propshafts bent or gear cases with holes in them from hitti,g things with stainless props to ever reccomend it. I tell people it's your money, but a $100 to buy a new aluminum prop is alot cheaper than a used $350 or more gearcase. And the prop you can change on the water, the gear case could require a tow in.

[bradford]

I really like my Solas 14 3/4 x 17 stainless on my 150

[thebottomfish]

So I found that the PO must have painted my original prop pretty heavy and it covered all the stamped numbers, I found where they were to figure out the prop and it is an OMC 763471. 15*15 aluminum propeller.
So I bought a replacement Solas 4 blade(new) and a stainless 3 blade solas(used)
Neither of them fit. It seems as if my original prop has a significantly longer hub. The splines on the 2 new props engage but they are about 2 inches from contacting the thrust washer (at the bullet) before the splines bottom out.
I'm imagining this is incorrect but no matter how much research I do, I don't find anything that a long hub prop exists for this motor and I can't imagine I need a thrust washer that's almost 3" thick.
Any ideas? I'm really at a loss here