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#1
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Great!
I'm gonna piggyback this thread...Ox66 225hp Just took my lower units off for impeller change. Found that "kits" didn't include enough parts. There is a small metal sleeve and plastic spacer that really needed to be replaced due to years of wiggling off and on with pliers. Ordered them and 1 new Plastic Housing that was past its prime. The other one had been replaced recently. Took a peek at the upper seals and the garter springs on both motors were broken and providing no tension. Not leaking and no water in oil but I'm gonna replace. They are doubled so I ordered 4. The diagram also shows an o-ring under the holder so I ordered 2. Anybody hear that cash register dinging...??? Motor Guys. Is replacing them as straight forward as it looks? Also there are so slightly leaking seals on 2 of the trim rams due to some slight pitting. smoothed it as best I could with 600 grit. Bought seals but didn't have "the tool". Tried half assed ways to remove.... ordered the tool.....ding!
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#2
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theres a trick to getting that sleave off without screwing up the plastic collar, apply a little heat to soften the plastic and it will come right off.
drive shaft seals aren't too bad, take the bolts outof the carrier, use a blunt punch and rotate the carrier, once its broken loose it should come out, if not, position one of the holes over open space. a 3/8 16 ta p will theard the hole,, position the hole over part of the lower unit housing, run a bolt in to use as puller to lift the carrier. Remove the seal and replace. Note, both seals face the same direction on a Yamaha, unlike a Merc. Trim seals can be pulled with a seal puller if they are the ones that dont have to have the end caps removed. A piece of pvc pipe cut square can be used to install the seals |
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#3
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Um, I think Maybe I need to order a service manual for the ox66 !!!
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1988 Grady White Seafarer Yamaha 250 ox66 on a bracket |
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#4
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So I have the trim apart. Looking at the pistons of the port motor, they are pitted where they are normally exposed. Over the winter there was seepage to the point where they needed a little squirt of hydraulic fluid in order to raise all the way.
I believe the seepage is due to the motors being down all winter. In down position the pits are in the seal. During the season, the motors will be up most of the time (at the dock). new pistons are $230 apiece. So my questions for the motor heads; Has anyone ever filled the pits with JBweld and sanded smooth? Would I be better off just replacing seals and topping off fluid during the season. Should I bite the $500 nut and get it over with. Mind you, I'm hoping to scrape together a repower next winter so I don't want to do more than necessary.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#5
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I did my water pumps and when testing I also had a problem with overheating alarm on one engine.
Flow looked good (same) on both engines. We did use a Y connector and put water to the ear muffs and to the flush port. troubleshooting with thermometer gun found one side of engine too hot 190 vs 120. Checked tstat, it was open but didn't look wet. Long story short, stuck the engine in an old dock box and filled 'er up.....ran like a charm...
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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We ended up doing the JBweld thing and it works surprisingly good.
And the upper gear oil seals became a problem. Could not get the housings loose on either motor. Did not want to break anything so we took the spring garter off the new seals and put them on the old seals and buttoned them up. Our new motto is "Do no harm!" Really can't get sucked into everything these 17 year old motors need. Yesterday I changed spark plugs & fuel filters. Found that in one motor the filter element was upside down and doing nothing. Don't know if it was like that when I bought it or if my brother was looking at it and put it back wrong. Not a big deal since I have 10 micron Filter/separators in line. Cleaned the O2 sensors. They were not too bad. Oh and my 2 cents about Yamaha water pump service.....give me a Suzuki...4 parts...impellor,key,plate,gasket... Getting ready to launch Saturday afternoon.
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 04-25-2018 at 08:39 AM. |
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#8
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I actually have one I think would work.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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