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Unread 04-12-2018, 07:25 PM
wellcraftv20step wellcraftv20step is offline
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Impeller was done 12 months ago, I just can't believe it would go from perfect to nothing at all, I'm afraid of running it dry for to long !!
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1988 Grady White Seafarer Yamaha 250 ox66 on a bracket
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Unread 04-12-2018, 07:38 PM
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Yamaha's don't like running on muffs. Proper way is to run a muff and a y fitting to the flush fitting on the power head. Hook a hose the the flush fitting and see if anything is blocking the pee hole. Put the engine in a barrel or back it in teh water and see how it pumps
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Unread 04-13-2018, 07:17 PM
wellcraftv20step wellcraftv20step is offline
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I hooked the garden hose to the flush fitting, it did a lot of intermittent spitting out the tell tale then out came a steady stream of water I let it run for about 10 mins. Then hooked up the muffs started her and she ran as she normally would ! Thanks guys!! I spent my lunch time reading up on how the cooling on an outboard works and amongst other things I foun,d out that just because you have water at the pee hole that doesn't mean your engine is cooling well or properly,
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Unread 04-13-2018, 09:30 PM
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Great!

I'm gonna piggyback this thread...Ox66 225hp
Just took my lower units off for impeller change.
Found that "kits" didn't include enough parts.

There is a small metal sleeve and plastic spacer that really needed to be replaced due to years of wiggling off and on with pliers. Ordered them and 1 new Plastic Housing that was past its prime. The other one had been replaced recently.

Took a peek at the upper seals and the garter springs on both motors were broken and providing no tension. Not leaking and no water in oil but I'm gonna replace. They are doubled so I ordered 4. The diagram also shows an o-ring under the holder so I ordered 2.

Anybody hear that cash register dinging...???

Motor Guys. Is replacing them as straight forward as it looks?

Also there are so slightly leaking seals on 2 of the trim rams due to some slight pitting. smoothed it as best I could with 600 grit. Bought seals but didn't have "the tool". Tried half assed ways to remove.... ordered the tool.....ding!
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Unread 04-14-2018, 01:35 AM
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theres a trick to getting that sleave off without screwing up the plastic collar, apply a little heat to soften the plastic and it will come right off.
drive shaft seals aren't too bad, take the bolts outof the carrier, use a blunt punch and rotate the carrier, once its broken loose it should come out, if not, position one of the holes over open space. a 3/8 16 ta p will theard the hole,, position the hole over part of the lower unit housing, run a bolt in to use as puller to lift the carrier. Remove the seal and replace. Note, both seals face the same direction on a Yamaha, unlike a Merc.
Trim seals can be pulled with a seal puller if they are the ones that dont have to have the end caps removed. A piece of pvc pipe cut square can be used to install the seals
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Unread 04-14-2018, 04:02 AM
wellcraftv20step wellcraftv20step is offline
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Um, I think Maybe I need to order a service manual for the ox66 !!!
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Unread 04-16-2018, 10:50 PM
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So I have the trim apart. Looking at the pistons of the port motor, they are pitted where they are normally exposed. Over the winter there was seepage to the point where they needed a little squirt of hydraulic fluid in order to raise all the way.
I believe the seepage is due to the motors being down all winter. In down position the pits are in the seal. During the season, the motors will be up most of the time (at the dock).

new pistons are $230 apiece.

So my questions for the motor heads;

Has anyone ever filled the pits with JBweld and sanded smooth?

Would I be better off just replacing seals and topping off fluid during the season.

Should I bite the $500 nut and get it over with. Mind you, I'm hoping to scrape together a repower next winter so I don't want to do more than necessary.
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