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			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Ok...finally had some time to put in to the boat this weekend (been a crazy few weeks at that place that pays the bills). I finished rebuilding the one carb that was leaking, cleaned the others out. Did a Link & Sync (to the best I could figure out). Put a new in-line fuel filter in, as I had no idea when the other one was from. Finally, it was time for another test fire. She continued doing the same it did before (would fire, 'burp'/backfire, then stall out). I decided to try to start with the throttle open a bit - started about 10% throttle, and worked my way up to about 50%, and it fired up! I immediately backed down to neutral after it fired, and it stalled right out. No matter what I did, unless the throttle was opened up a bit, it wouldn't stay running. After 2 tries like this, I decided to call it quits on starting until I could get back here and get some more advice. After getting out of the boat, I noticed a little smoke/steam coming from the exhaust ports. So, I guess I need to replace the water pump (planned on doing this anyway, just haven't been able to figure out how to yet). I also drained the gear oil, and plan on replacing that too. So, my newest questions: 1. How do I get the lower unit off to replace/rebuild the water pump? I found the 6 or 7 bolts at the bottom, but after taking them off, something is still holding it. 2. Any advice on why it would run with the throttle open, but not at idle? 3. What's the best oil to use to refill the gear case, as I doubt the OMC Hi-Vis Gear Oil recommended by the manufacturer is still available! As always, thanks for any insight/help. It's greatly appreciated! Here's to still hoping I can get my grandpop out on the boat one more time! | 
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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				__________________ 1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God)  Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			My bet is you didn't get the carbs cleaned correctly, and your pickup tubes are plugged. Otherwise you need to inspect it for cracked reeds. As to dropping the lower unit, did you remove the trim anode and get the bolt above it?
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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 In regards to the lower unit, I did remove the trim anode, and the bolt above it. The unit dropped about an inch, and would move back and forth/side to side, but wouldn't drop out completely. Is there something that connects it the the motor, or do the gear just slip together, and perhaps I did to pull a little harder to separate? | 
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			You didn't take the shift linkage loose. Look under the carbs on the front side of the powerhead, and com8ng in from the port side, you'll see the shift linkage. I want to say it's a 5/16" hex head bolt. DO NOT DROP IT taking it out. If you do, it can fall down the whole for the shift shaft, and be gone. And do not turn the shift shaft once you drop the lower, if you do, you will be resetting your shift linkage height.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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