OMC SeaDrive 2.0L Won't Start

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by phatdaddy

If thats the case, I'd check battery and all connections, might not be spinning fast enough to produce fire.

As far as spark checker, I'd tell one of my kids "hey, hold this wire for me", they'll let you know real quick.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Any engine needs 4 elements to run all in the correct order. Fuel, air, spark, and compression. In most diesel engines the spark happens from the shear heat of compression, in a gas engine they normally use a spark plug. Air and fuel mix is sucked into the cylinder(except for dfi applications in which case the fuel is injected dorectly into the cylinder), the piston moves up compressing the mix, a spark occurs, the piston gets sent back down, and then it exhausts the burnt gases. If you don't have compression, it will never run as the fuel air mixture won't properly atomize to ignite. If you have no fuel, then theres nothing to ignite. No spark and you can't ignite the mix. And if it can't exhaust the gases, it cannot pull in air/fuel mix to repeat the process.

That engine uses a direct drive starter and needs good CLEAN cables to kick over. It actually takes more juice to start that engine than a v-6 does because of the direct drive starter vs gear reduction. Also, anytime an oil injected engine has sat, you're supposed to start it and run it on a 50:1 mix until oil can get back into the system. Several have burned up outboards with functioning oil injection by not running pre mix until the system is purged, let alone the pos vro system that omc used. Pull the plugs put of the engine and see if it spins over with no load, then so a compression test(should be around 130-150 on that engine). Also check it for spark while the plugs are out. Start checking the basics and work your way down the list to see if you have the needed requirements for it to run.

And I hope it wasn't run at anything over idle with the airbox cover off. If it was, I would be willing to lay odds she's been leaned out BIG TIME!

[Redloon]

bgares wrote: "When trying to turn over, it seemed a bit sluggish. It would turn give a good turn, then weaken up a bit, then turn again. I would describe it as more of a pulse, then a constant turn."


I just experienced the very same thing you described with an old Evinrude 135 that came on a Wellcraft V17 I just bought. The motor spun unevenly and I found that the battery negative terminal got very hot while trying to get the motor to start. I put a new set of battery cables on the motor and it spun like a top. It looks like corrosion got to the negative cable at the battery end and caused more resistance than normal in that cable.

I recommend you check your cables especially since you said they have been sitting for a few years.

[bradford]

Welcome to the site.

[steplift20]

Welcome to the site brother wellcraft owner, you have no idea how close we came to shutting down but that didn't happen Now I'm not as informative as these guys but one thing I did learn And that is start at the beginning, the first thing I would check is , check the kill switch make sure it's not in the off position,,, Then I would charge the battery's Then prime the bulb make sure it gets hard and fire it up If she don't start try spraying some either in the carbs That should get it going If that does not work Let us know Good luck And remember Check the kill switch also change all the fuel filters and if you have one if you don't get one a water seperator filter

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by steplift20

Welcome to the site brother wellcraft owner, you have no idea how close we came to shutting down but that didn't happen Now I'm not as informative as these guys but one thing I did learn And that is start at the beginning, the first thing I would check is , check the kill switch make sure it's not in the off position,,, Then I would charge the battery's Then prime the bulb make sure it gets hard and fire it up If she don't start try spraying some either in the carbs That should get it going If that does not work Let us know Good luck And remember Check the kill switch also change all the fuel filters and if you have one if you don't get one a water separator filter

YIKE!!! NO!!!!!!! DO NOT spray ether in the carbs. These are 2 stroke engines.. that means that on the intake cycle that ether is going into the crankcase of the engine, not into the cylinders. One spark and the entire engine blows up. IF YOU MUST resort to ether, unscrew a spark plug, squirt it into the hole then screw the plug back in and try starting it. That way the ether at least is in the cylinder where explosions are supposed to happen and not in the crankcase..

[THEFERMANATOR]

Yep, starting fluid is designed to be used by both spark ignition AND compression ignition engines. A 2 stroke engine compresses the intake charge not once, but twice. Before the intake port opens into the cylinder, the piston going down is compressing the gasses inside the crankcase. And that crankcase pressure could get high enough to cause the starting fluid to ignite, and BOOM goes your block.

[bgares]

Happy Monday everyone! I was able to put some time in to working on the ol' boat over the weekend. I went out and purchased 2 new batteries, and installed them. Had great voltage everywhere, so I decided to try a test fire. After pumping on the primer bulb, it never got 'hard', just kept pumping. I started to notice the smell of gas, so I took the motor cover off, and found one of the carbs leaking fuel out of the overflow (at least I think it's the overflow). In the attached picture, it was leaking from the hole between the 2 bolts, directly above the bowl drain plug. I pulled the carb off, cleaned it up, and put it back on. Instead of 'over pumping' the bulb, I just pumped it a few times, and tried a test fire. The starter sounded a lot better with all the power! She almost turned right over. Cranked the key again, and she fired up! Ran for about 2 seconds, back-fired, and stalled. After that, every time I tried to turn the motor over (2 or 3 more times), right as it wanted to start, it backfired, and shut off. So, could this be a result of the leaking carb? I've already ordered a rebuild kit for it, which should hopefully be here by Friday. But is there anything else I should be looking at in the meantime?

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by bgares

Happy Monday everyone! I was able to put some time in to working on the ol' boat over the weekend. I went out and purchased 2 new batteries, and installed them. Had great voltage everywhere, so I decided to try a test fire. After pumping on the primer bulb, it never got 'hard', just kept pumping. I started to notice the smell of gas, so I took the motor cover off, and found one of the carbs leaking fuel out of the overflow (at least I think it's the overflow). In the attached picture, it was leaking from the hole between the 2 bolts, directly above the bowl drain plug. I pulled the carb off, cleaned it up, and put it back on. Instead of 'over pumping' the bulb, I just pumped it a few times, and tried a test fire. The starter sounded a lot better with all the power! She almost turned right over. Cranked the key again, and she fired up! Ran for about 2 seconds, back-fired, and stalled. After that, every time I tried to turn the motor over (2 or 3 more times), right as it wanted to start, it backfired, and shut off. So, could this be a result of the leaking carb? I've already ordered a rebuild kit for it, which should hopefully be here by Friday. But is there anything else I should be looking at in the meantime?

I'd look into your timing first thing. Verify it's where it should be.

[steplift20]

Thanks for correcting me about the either All I know about that is I brought my engine to the mechanic and he told me he had to use either to get it started I never asked him where he sprayed it So you guys saved me from ever doing that A big thanks guys