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			Some time ago a fellow named Aussie  supposedly had the hot lick  on the 470 motor! Have not hear from him in years and don't know if he ever completed the project.Hope he didn't get licked!
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			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Oh Ya I remember that guy.   That was funny.   He was all fired up everyday.   So got off phone with mechanic. 10k to put in a 3.0. So instead. We are going to try to bypass the coolant system making it open raw water system. Anyone tried that on this. It makes sense to me. I've been chasing the pressure coolant system. So to eliminate it seems like it will work. No evidence of water in culindRs at this point so head gasket may be ok. We ran a blue devil sealing kit through it See how she goes | 
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			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Getting back out there.
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			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Santa Barbara harbor launch ramp.  Always thankful to make it back to the dock with this old boat!  My patient wife and loyal golden retriever
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			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
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			I have a stainless and aluminum sheet T Top.  Works pretty good.  Bracing could be better.
		 Last edited by surchin; 04-26-2017 at 06:18 AM. | 
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			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Craigslist and other sources I would look into a running 470 that would be the best way to go.It's not the fresh water system killing it. More riser bad operating when lower in coolant (steel head aluminum block) just a few reasons. Actually it boils down to general maintenance.  So that leaves it hard to fine a good one. Most of the time the good ones are usually in a boat that sat for years and rotten out. Maybe consider closing the transom hole go bracket and outboard. Ten thousand for a new 3.0 litre is out. I have two of these boat with the same motor that still run fine for now. Good luck with your decision. | 
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			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Mercruiser didn't put a heat exchanger on that engine for no reason. The mixture of aluminum and dissimiliar metals is BEGGING for corrosion. If you're doing it for a short time and plan on throwing the engine aesy afterwards, go ahead. Otherwise install the 4" heat exchanger and fix your combustion leak.
		 
				__________________ 2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD  AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 | 
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			#9  
			
			
			
			
			
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			Have you checked your bilge for coolant?  I had an overheating problem with my 170 when my outdrive impeller was bad and the coolant pressure caused the back seal in my water pump to fail. The coolant leaked out a relief hole and into the bilge whenever the engine got up to temperature. If I remember correctly, the front end of the cam shaft drives the water pump and it was scored a little so I got a sleeve for it, installed it, screwed up a seal putting the pump cover back on and with some advice from Spare Parts was able to get it done on the second try and no more leaking. It's a bit of a job - you have to remove the harmonic balancer, which is part of the alternator. I found all of the magnets were loose, lots of rust on the iron balancer and some corrosion on the coils. I cleaned that up and got several more years out of the alternator. 
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