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#1
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The tank compartment is not a bilge area,. It is meant to be a dry compartment.
The hatch must be sealed with silicone(not 5200 because you should inspect it annually). Tanks were foamed in place. There is a pvc pipe running under the tank to allow water from forward bilge to stern. You say you unclogged a hole and it was a gusher. Sounds like the pvc pipe was clogged. Water came from forward. That pipe clogs alot on old boats. You should probably cut an access hatch in the fish box to get at the forward end of the pipe and remove the piles of junk that are blocking it. Then put a hose in there and blow out the pipe. Did you see water drain from tank compartment? if so, there has been some modification.... or you poked a hole in the bulkhead... Be aware that since your filler is to the stern, you probably will not get a full tank before the vent spits. It would be a good idea to remove your gunnel rod boxes and reach down in there and clear the holes between the cross frames too. You need long arms....
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1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc Last edited by SkunkBoat; 04-10-2017 at 08:21 AM. |
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#2
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Hate to say it, but someone a few years ago had problems with a tank put in backwards like that. I'd pull it to turn it around and relocate the filler. While you're in there you can address the foam/drainage situation. Really not to hard considering all the other work you've done/are doing.
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#3
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Had a little time today so whipped up a new dash. The original was gone so I used some starboard and mounted the gauges and switch panel on it so if I need to access behind the dash I just can pull it out as one big panel. It gives me plenty of room to work in the console as well.
![]() I used a couple wiring harnesses I had laying around so if I need to remove the dash I can just unplug a couple plugs instead of having to cut stuff again. Hopefully I'll never have to get in there once I'm done though.
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Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
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#4
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Quote:
__________________
Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
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#5
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i would think the fuel pick up toward the stern is the most important consideration.
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#6
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agree.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#7
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The vent towards the stern creates a lot of gushing at fill up and makes it nearly impossible to fill up completely, plus when planing off would probably spew fuel out the vent with all the fuel tilting back towards the stern.
Try it out and see. Figured I'd mention it before you had her all buttoned up and had to re do it.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#8
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Quote:
Don't like that tank at all...
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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