![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
Thanks for the feedback. The transom has bare wood in the hole now. But on a good note it's dry wood. Think I'll just get some 5200 and use an acid brush and brush it in the holes for a couple coats then just use LifeCaulk to seal the motor on. I've read horror stories about using 5200 to actually seal the motor on. And as much as I pull motors off that's the last thing I'll need.
__________________
Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
I don't know to much about that but I do know that 5200 3 m is supposed to be permanent If and when you have to remove the engine it's going to be a real hard time your going to have I would not go by what I said but I would ask the heavy hitters and see what they suggest you to use
__________________
love to fish |
|
#3
|
||||
|
||||
|
Quote:
__________________
Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
|
#4
|
||||
|
||||
|
I drilled my holes a 1/2 inch larger than my motors bolts. I then hotcoated the holes and taped one side closed. I then filled the hole with thickened resin and then glassed 2 patches of 1.5 csm on either side. The next day i drilled the holes to the actuall bolts size leaving 1/4 ring of glass around the bolt hole. Now this is the extreme end of the spectrum! And almost a little radical. Hot coat with West Systems 105 then use 3m 4200. I used 5200 on my first motor i mounted on my boat....when i took it off to put my suzuki on it pulled the paint and some gelcoat right off. I would west systems and 4200 if i did it again. If yo dont have west systems use a vinylester resin or a thinned polyester resin
|
|
#5
|
||||
|
||||
|
I heart this thread. Not advocating 5200 ideas but deinstall damage pales in comparison to years worth of water intrusion. The worst that can be done is not sealing at all... Appreciate all the ideas as I am hoping to repower really soon.
__________________
1994 Wellcraft V21 |
|
#6
|
||||
|
||||
|
Read my post again. What I said was I let the 5200 dry, THEN hang the engine. That way you get the sealing of the 5200, without the headaches it you need to repower. Unless you damage the threads on a bolt, the stainless bolts will last longer than the boat usually. This is a one and done solution.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
|
#7
|
||||
|
||||
|
Ive seen the outer skin of a transom pulled off of a boat while trying to remove an engine that was installed with 5200, it destroyed a solid transom. 5200 stills cures and adheres for weeks after its installed. Life Caulk is rated for under water line use. You need a sealant, not an adhesive(5200)
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|