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#1
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So I took Skunk's advice and put the motor up as far it would go and bounced with my full weight on the skeg. I'm no expert and as much as I want to remain in denial about this it looks pretty bad IMO. According to the ruler it only deflects around 1/16" of an inch but it still seems too flimsy for 200HP.
I looked at Skunk's excellent videos (thanks for the tip Phat) and I'm pretty sure I don't want to tackle that kind of a project outside over the winter. Again, if anyone knows of a pro transom guy local to the NY/NJ/Ct area please let me know. Baring that, I may go the plate route and hope it tides me over for a few years but no way can I just leave it as is. Here are a couple vids of me jumping on it. Thoughts? https://youtu.be/BmS3VGQKPQs https://youtu.be/XXwN7eKPUi4 |
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#2
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Yeah man, fix that, lol.
I would do the whole thing, not the plate. I'll bet if you drill it anywhere near where the engine mounts you'll pull out dirt, which is probably whats keeping the glass from cracking.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#3
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I hate to tell you... but that is shot.
![]() I would not want to ride in that boat ![]() If you can't handle a transom fix like mine, there is a shorter way. Take off the aluminum trim and cut off the 1.5" strip of glass. Use a chain saw to dig out the crap as far as you can down and sideways. Clean the inside glass as best you can and pour to fill. It will be way better than what you have now.
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#4
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Quote:
I'm going to get some quotes but if it's too expensive, your shortcut method sounds better than just using plates. If I go that route and basically pour half the transom do you think that will make it difficult or impossible to do a proper job down the road? |
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#5
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__________________
Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
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#6
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What stuff do you pour there and where do you get it , and what about that stuff called git rot I heard it's pretty good on rotten wood
__________________
love to fish |
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#7
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I may be wrong, but i think git-rot only works on dry rot, and even then only if the wood is still held together. Wet, rotted wood like you find in-between the fiberglass sandwich is saturated with water, so there's no room in the woods cells to absorb the git-rot liquid. In other words, it won't work.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. Last edited by Destroyer; 11-25-2016 at 08:35 AM. |
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#8
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Skunk introduced me to Carbon Core. I had heard of Nida Core and I think this may be the same company just a new name. Also I've seen SeaCast pours but that stuff is a lot thicker and I think there'd be a much better chance of trapping air. CarbonCore looks like the way to go. I'm sure shipping on that kind of stuff is high. I'm fortunate enough to live close to them and when I'm ready just go buy it straight from them.
__________________
Current boat(s): 1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB 1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders |
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#9
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