'79 teardown and rebuild.

[Redloon]

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by Redloon

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

Hadn't thought of that. I bet that stuff could expand easily if not braced. I'll take that into consideration for sure thanks.

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

I read that HPDE board is the best to use. As mentioned I'd need to brace it so I'm thinking maybe 2x4 bracing in the backside of the dam. The Carbon Core looks pretty affordable to me. Between the time and money into building a transom and more time consuming building stringers from scratch I think it'll be well worth the money. They are about 1-1/2 hours from me so when time comes I'm ready I'll definitely make a road trip out there and load up. Thanks for the tip.

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

I read that HPDE board is the best to use.

HDPE is Starboard...$$$$you would need a 4x8 sheet.
PVC board is cheap.

Besides vinyl, you could use some cheap plywood and cover it with clear packing tape.

When you say "dam" you mean you're going to pour between outer transom and a temporary wall, then remove the wall after it sets and glass over? You need to be sure there are no leaks! (you saw my video).Be aware that the transom on a V20 is not flat across so if you use a flat template or dam, you will be thicker on the centerline. You going to have to think that thru...

I would probably glass a couple layers of skin to the template with excess tabs hanging over sides, pop it loose and glass that in place(keep your 1.5" thickness of transom). Then use the template as a brace for your pour.

[3 Squids]

Ok. I see. Make a template out of PVC board. "Laminate" that. Seperate those 2 and tab the inner skin in then fill. Seems like a good plan. I guess I can make some sort of jig to curve the template as I glass it then use it again to reinforce the inner skin while I pour.

Unfortunately I haven't gotten to touch the boat this weekend. Trying to shorten the infinite honey-do list as much as I can so when I order $1000 work of fiberglass and core material maybe it will ease the burn. Probably not though.