'79 teardown and rebuild.

[3 Squids]

Had a little time today between work and kids hockey practice so I pulled the tank hatch off, which was not sealed or fastened at all. The tank was foamed in nice and thick. Of course the foam on top of the tank was completely saturated in water and or fuel. I got most of the foam off the top of the tank. I was mostly just curious of what the tank looked like. I can imagine it's going to be a nightmare releasing the tank from the foam.



I think I've come to conclusion to keep this hull the cuddy cabin. At this point it's obvious the stringers and floor are gone. Floor has some solid spots but many soft ones too. I'm assuming this may be from the parquet core they used. It seems to have worked properly, only rotting the pieces that had water intrusion. But it seems it has many places for the water to get in.

I was going to cut the floor out tonight but I am now debating trying to get the whole cap off. Just trying to figure out how to do it. It seems stripping as much as I can off the cap to lighten it up. It sucks that I cut the rear of the cap off now that I'm planning on doing this but hey, it is what it is. Planning on removing the cap this weekend.

[Greyduk]

Thomas, for what it's worth, I saw "Ship Shape TV" Saturday and they were discussing a product that dissolved the foam. It came from "Fiberglass Coatings Inc". Maybe that might make the the tank removal easier. The number for the St. Pete store is 800-272-7890.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by Greyduk

Thomas, for what it's worth, I saw "Ship Shape TV" Saturday and they were discussing a product that dissolved the foam. It came from "Fiberglass Coatings Inc". Maybe that might make the the tank removal easier. The number for the St. Pete store is 800-272-7890.

Awesome info. Definitely going to look into that. Thanks.

Had about 45 minutes of daylight after work do I pulled the rest of the rubrail off. Then went ahead and removed the windshield. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the helm and all of the wiring out of the boat. I'm trying to make actually pulling the cap an easy, snag free process. But I seriously doubt it'll go like that. Once I get the cap off I plan on reinstalling the part I cut off while it's out since I'll be able to glass the back with nothing in the way.

So opinion time. The stringers seem to be 100% mush. Has anyone thought about filleting the top of the stringers off. Digging out the core and pouring a product like arjay or nida core?

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

So opinion time. The stringers seem to be 100% mush. Has anyone thought about filleting the top of the stringers off. Digging out the core and pouring a product like arjay or nida core?

That's my future plan if it isn't too $$$$. I haven't estimated the # of gallons for the stringers yet. I did the transom with CarbonCore http://www.carbon-core.com/carbonbond-transom.htmand I'm very happy with it. Three gallons for an outboard transom.

Get an electric chain saw....

Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...

I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?

[SkunkBoat]

Originally Posted by 3 Squids

I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

[chart]

carbon core is the new name for the pour-able Nidacore to the best of my noledge

[Redloon]

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

[3 Squids]

Originally Posted by Redloon

If you build a temporary inner skin make sure it is sufficiently thick or properly braced so it doesn't bow or deform while the compound is curing.

My first pourable transom was made using SeaCast on a 16' PowerCat bass boat. It ended up being over 3" thick in the middle. When the SeaCast was curing a lot of heat was generated and my temporary inner fiberglass skin got soft and deformed. I found out I had a really, really thick transom when drilling it for the motor mount holes.

Hadn't thought of that. I bet that stuff could expand easily if not braced. I'll take that into consideration for sure thanks.

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

Unfortunately I have no forklift...

Maybe you could use a PVC board template of your transom(poly resin doesn't stick to it)
No problem with 3/4 stringer. just the volume going to be $$$$. But it will save a lot of time and glass and resin.
Carbon Core is in VA so you can get it without shipping.

I read that HPDE board is the best to use. As mentioned I'd need to brace it so I'm thinking maybe 2x4 bracing in the backside of the dam. The Carbon Core looks pretty affordable to me. Between the time and money into building a transom and more time consuming building stringers from scratch I think it'll be well worth the money. They are about 1-1/2 hours from me so when time comes I'm ready I'll definitely make a road trip out there and load up. Thanks for the tip.