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  #1  
Unread 11-06-2016, 09:21 PM
Redloon Redloon is offline
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You're not wasting any time tearing into this one!
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1973 Mako 20' Center Console
1984 Wellcraft V20 Cuddy
1977 Wellcraft V20 Center Console
1975 Wellcraft V17 Center Console
1964 16' Super Skeeter with 55Lb thrust Motorguide Trolling Motor

1985 Glastron HPV-175 - sold
1984 Wellcraft 180 Fisherman - sold
1973 Mako 17' Angler - sold
1972 Mako 17' Standard - sold
1972 Mako 19' Center Console - sold
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  #2  
Unread 11-06-2016, 09:28 PM
steplift20 steplift20 is offline
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Boy I wish I could tackle a job like that Keep the pics coming as you move ahead,
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Unread 11-06-2016, 10:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Redloon View Post
You're not wasting any time tearing into this one!
Having boat withdrawals. My green boat has been at other people's places for the past 3 months. I just needed to cut into something.

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Originally Posted by steplift20 View Post
Boy I wish I could tackle a job like that Keep the pics coming as you move ahead,
It's easy to do what I've done so far. Trust me I feel I may be getting in over my head. But between friends at home and guys here I feel I can do it. Well with YouTube also.

Also something weird with this boat. The bottom of drain hole is about 2" off the bottom of the hull. This thing holds a lot of water unless I lift the tongue 4' in the air. May have to relocate that as well. The bottom of this plug is where the top of my green boat is. Weird to be that different for the same year.
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  #4  
Unread 11-09-2016, 09:42 PM
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3 Squids 3 Squids is offline
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Had a little time today between work and kids hockey practice so I pulled the tank hatch off, which was not sealed or fastened at all. The tank was foamed in nice and thick. Of course the foam on top of the tank was completely saturated in water and or fuel. I got most of the foam off the top of the tank. I was mostly just curious of what the tank looked like. I can imagine it's going to be a nightmare releasing the tank from the foam.



I think I've come to conclusion to keep this hull the cuddy cabin. At this point it's obvious the stringers and floor are gone. Floor has some solid spots but many soft ones too. I'm assuming this may be from the parquet core they used. It seems to have worked properly, only rotting the pieces that had water intrusion. But it seems it has many places for the water to get in.

I was going to cut the floor out tonight but I am now debating trying to get the whole cap off. Just trying to figure out how to do it. It seems stripping as much as I can off the cap to lighten it up. It sucks that I cut the rear of the cap off now that I'm planning on doing this but hey, it is what it is. Planning on removing the cap this weekend.
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  #5  
Unread 11-10-2016, 09:31 AM
Greyduk Greyduk is offline
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Thomas, for what it's worth, I saw "Ship Shape TV" Saturday and they were discussing a product that dissolved the foam. It came from "Fiberglass Coatings Inc". Maybe that might make the the tank removal easier. The number for the St. Pete store is 800-272-7890.
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  #6  
Unread 11-10-2016, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Greyduk View Post
Thomas, for what it's worth, I saw "Ship Shape TV" Saturday and they were discussing a product that dissolved the foam. It came from "Fiberglass Coatings Inc". Maybe that might make the the tank removal easier. The number for the St. Pete store is 800-272-7890.
Awesome info. Definitely going to look into that. Thanks.

Had about 45 minutes of daylight after work do I pulled the rest of the rubrail off. Then went ahead and removed the windshield. Hopefully tomorrow I can get the helm and all of the wiring out of the boat. I'm trying to make actually pulling the cap an easy, snag free process. But I seriously doubt it'll go like that. Once I get the cap off I plan on reinstalling the part I cut off while it's out since I'll be able to glass the back with nothing in the way.

So opinion time. The stringers seem to be 100% mush. Has anyone thought about filleting the top of the stringers off. Digging out the core and pouring a product like arjay or nida core?
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1985 V-20 Cuddy/ 470 IB/OB
1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders
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  #7  
Unread 11-10-2016, 08:53 PM
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SkunkBoat SkunkBoat is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3 Squids View Post

So opinion time. The stringers seem to be 100% mush. Has anyone thought about filleting the top of the stringers off. Digging out the core and pouring a product like arjay or nida core?
That's my future plan if it isn't too $$$$. I haven't estimated the # of gallons for the stringers yet. I did the transom with CarbonCore http://www.carbon-core.com/carbonbond-transom.htmand I'm very happy with it. Three gallons for an outboard transom.

Get an electric chain saw....

Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc

Last edited by SkunkBoat; 11-10-2016 at 09:01 PM.
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  #8  
Unread 11-10-2016, 09:33 PM
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Originally Posted by SkunkBoat View Post
Can't wait to see how you get the cap off. I need ideas...
I have a forklift in my shop with a 10' long pole on the front for picking up rolls of carpet. I'm planning on reinforcing the cap where I removed the rear section. Make up some sort of lifting harness and yank her on out of there. Well I plan to use a little more finesse than that. I'll definitely get some pics.

I saw your transom pour video. I love the idea of a poured transom/stringers. If it's possible to build some sort of dam to create a temporary inner "skin" for the transom I'd love to pour a new transom. Then remove the dam and laminate. Sound possible? Also I have concern of the strength off the stringers being only 3/4" wide. Any thoughts?
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1972 Egg Harbor 38’ Sedan/ 454 Crusaders
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  #9  
Unread 11-11-2016, 04:17 AM
chart chart is offline
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carbon core is the new name for the pour-able Nidacore to the best of my noledge
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