1984 v20

[SilentThreat]

Got some work in today before the rain came through. Got the rubrail off and was able to get most of the cap off. Stringers are rotted even up in the front. Only thing exposed now are the stringers and foam. Foam is god awful A real PITA to get out. I attached some pics of the breakdown. And I had a couple questions about the railing for the new cap. Im going to be doing something like Kracker Jacks Build (Pic attached) for the rail. But in the other pic attached, youll see where the boat has what looks to be reinforced fiberglass. Would that part have to come off in order to put the rail on?
I really want to the floor flush from bow to stern. I know id lose storage but has anyone ever done this before?
I will also be enclosing the transom for a bracket. Would raising the floor an inch be a good idea?

Thanks for all the help.
Z

[SilentThreat]

Here is a pic I took of one of the bulkheads. It almost seems like it was crushed and the fiberglass bent. Theres also a pic one of the stringers that looks to have had the same thing happen plus delamination and cracking. Weird.

Thanks
Z

[smokeonthewater]

It's actually very common for the wood to rot away and the thin glass cover to deform.

[SkunkBoat]

The '84 deck was already at a self-bailing height. No reason to raise it.
Your going to be a lot lighter without the cap so you will sit higher in the water also.

Also, without the cap, your gunnel height is already going to be 4" lower so raising the deck puts you at knee caps I imagine...

[SilentThreat]

Thanks for the advice skunk. I might ditch the idea of the bracket even though this will be a mainly spearfishing boat. Since im doing everything myself I would hate to mount it wrong and ruin the ride. Im running strings across the hull and measuring down to the existing stringers in order to record the height for the new ones. Is this a good idea or is there a better way?

Thanks,
Z

[SilentThreat]

Got some work done on the boat yesterday. Pulled the back part of the cap last night and grinded the gelcoat that was on the inside part of the transom. Its funny how the factory gelcoated one side off the inside transom and not the other. Ill be putting another layer of 1708 on the insde because the outter skin seems very thin and their are some parts where the skin has been piereced exposing some wood.

Well the transom was rotted in most spots. Im going the pourable transom route for this project (Brand Recommendations are greatly appreciated). Im guessing its easier to remove the wood when its rotted. Ive also heard that a chainsaw is the best route for removal?

My buddy has this same boat and I cant remember if his came with a 25" transom or a 20". I measure this one and its 20". Im assuming that's why it has that notch on the transom. Ill be raising that also.

Thanks,
Z
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[SkunkBoat]

search tags for transom repair.
Just did this last season....see Youtube links in my signature.

Electric chain saw...YES!!!! Highly recommended!!!

the name out there for pourable are Arjay/Nidacore/CarbonCore. best as i can tell Carbon Core is the latest name for the same product. Could not find anyone selling the other two.
They were in Virginia but gave me a name of a distributor in NY. See other posts for details.

There is another product called Seacast I think? Thicker material with chopped glass in it. They were in Florida....$$$$$$shipping.

from Youtube videos, I thought the CarbonCore poured better.

[SilentThreat]

Awesome! Thanks so much! Video was very helpful!

Thanks,
Z