1984 v20

[SkunkBoat]

I was going to suggest cap off but I see you cut the deck already.
I'm surprised that the '84 cc has foam between stingers, my '84 cuddy does not'

I did my transom with pourable compound and I'm very happy with it.

For my next project I'm thinking cap off full resto & paint.
Thinking of using pourable for stringers. Instead of cutting out all of the stringer and having to tab in all new stringers with wood,you could cut the tops, hollow out with chain saw and clean to glass, then fill with pourable compound and glass over. The expense of the pourable material will be offset by needing less glass and resin and time. And the original bond of the glass to hull will still be there.

Just something to think about...

Welcome and post lots of picks.

[bgreene]

I like your suggestion Skunk - seems like a way to solidify the hull while maintaining the current integrity...... Perhaps only issue might be connection between stringers and hull remains weak based on rotten ends, where pourable doesn't contact ? Maybe not.

[SilentThreat]

I never thought that was possible! thanks skunk definitely something to think about. Im trying to do a little every day. Ill definitely post more pics as it goes along.

Thanks!
Z

[spareparts]

Originally Posted by SkunkBoat

I was going to suggest cap off but I see you cut the deck already.
I'm surprised that the '84 cc has foam between stingers, my '84 cuddy does not'

I did my transom with pourable compound and I'm very happy with it.

For my next project I'm thinking cap off full resto & paint.
Thinking of using pourable for stringers. Instead of cutting out all of the stringer and having to tab in all new stringers with wood,you could cut the tops, hollow out with chain saw and clean to glass, then fill with pourable compound and glass over. The expense of the pourable material will be offset by needing less glass and resin and time. And the original bond of the glass to hull will still be there.

Just something to think about...

Welcome and post lots of picks.

thought about doing the same many times, talked myself out of it do to weight. If I ever do another one I'm going to cut the top of the stringers off, chainsaw the wood out. cut foam or pour foam till it fills where the wood was, lay cloth over the foam/glass stringer all the way to the hull to have an all glass stringer. I've talked with several boat builders and they tell me the majority of the strength in the stringers(if its done correct by the manufactures) is in the glass, not the wood. The wood merey gives them a form to lay the glass over



BTW, epoxy works magazine has an article about floor/stringer replacement this quarter http://epoxyworks.com/index.php/cockpit-sole-repair/

[SkunkBoat]

CarbonCore weighs about the same as AB grade douglas fir plywood. It is made with polyester resin and filler "micro-beads" to make it lightweight.
A good thing is that is completely fills the stringer space. If you use wood you have to use polyester filler to avoid gaps.

Yes the strength is from the sandwich of the glass with the core, whether its plywood, balsa, foam or other. The bond is important. If the bond between the sandwich is lost, it loses most of its strength.
You can't just stuff it with dry foam and you need a pourable foam that bonds with the glass/poly resin. Or maybe there is a brand of sheet foam that can be glassed like a piece of lumber and then glassed into the hollowed out stringer space? hmmm...?

I like that the CarbonCore (Arjay/NidaCore) does not soak up water. If you use the closed cell foam it will eventually soak up water. How much and how quickly depends on a lot of variables. Same with wood. All it takes is one screw hole or a bilge drain pass through that isn't glassed(the main problem on V20s)

The insulated fish box on the V20 is a good example. It is glass over foam. Mine was completely soaked due to years of water thru screw holes. The glass separated from the foam and the floor of the fish box was flimsy.

[SilentThreat]

Got some work in today before the rain came through. Got the rubrail off and was able to get most of the cap off. Stringers are rotted even up in the front. Only thing exposed now are the stringers and foam. Foam is god awful A real PITA to get out. I attached some pics of the breakdown. And I had a couple questions about the railing for the new cap. Im going to be doing something like Kracker Jacks Build (Pic attached) for the rail. But in the other pic attached, youll see where the boat has what looks to be reinforced fiberglass. Would that part have to come off in order to put the rail on?
I really want to the floor flush from bow to stern. I know id lose storage but has anyone ever done this before?
I will also be enclosing the transom for a bracket. Would raising the floor an inch be a good idea?

Thanks for all the help.
Z

[SilentThreat]

Here is a pic I took of one of the bulkheads. It almost seems like it was crushed and the fiberglass bent. Theres also a pic one of the stringers that looks to have had the same thing happen plus delamination and cracking. Weird.

Thanks
Z

[smokeonthewater]

It's actually very common for the wood to rot away and the thin glass cover to deform.

[SkunkBoat]

The '84 deck was already at a self-bailing height. No reason to raise it.
Your going to be a lot lighter without the cap so you will sit higher in the water also.

Also, without the cap, your gunnel height is already going to be 4" lower so raising the deck puts you at knee caps I imagine...

[SilentThreat]

Thanks for the advice skunk. I might ditch the idea of the bracket even though this will be a mainly spearfishing boat. Since im doing everything myself I would hate to mount it wrong and ruin the ride. Im running strings across the hull and measuring down to the existing stringers in order to record the height for the new ones. Is this a good idea or is there a better way?

Thanks,
Z