Popped screws in deck

[steplift20]

The well nuts look like they are brass threads the screw I would get s.s.

[scook]

Thanks Destroyer - they seem similar in principal to some concrete anchors we use but I've never come across them. Learn something most days.

I'd be concerned about corrosion too but don't have any experience with them. I have a bunch of stripped screws in my hatch cover. I'd thought about those sheet metal nut things that are/were used in automotive applications (they slip over the edge) if I could get them in stainless.

My other idea is an epoxy repair that adds thickness under the fairly thin stripped out flange. I thought about using wide masking tape to create kind of a bag to hold the epoxy in place until it set and allow a thickness of 1/2" to 3/4""- maybe use Marine Tex. What do you guys think of that?

[inaforty]

I used thicken epoxy. Easiest stuff to use comes in a caulking tube with a mixing tip. West system and Jamestown makes them.
Great videos and question and answer blog at Jamestown Dist.
http://www.jamestowndistributors.com...t.do?pid=64347

[phatdaddy]

I used gflex by west epoxy to tab little squares of scrap starboard under the lip.

[SkunkBoat]

in the fuel tank hatch...don't over think it
Put a 1" wide strip of 1/2" pvc trim board (pine will work) under the lip, along the length of the edges. Temporary hold in place with a couple dabs of plain old silicone. Pre-drill a pilot hole through the existing holes in fiberglass. Screws
from the top will pull everything tight.

Be sure to silicone the hatch to be watertight!

[Destroyer]

I used jack nuts on my rod holders to finally keep them in place. The screws were constantly stripping, and I know people here have tried all kinds of repairs including wood strips, starboard, fiberglass, epoxy etc. But the jack nut did the trick, it's made for thin brittle materials, it's invisible when assembled, and should I need to get to the area behind the rod holder they simply unscrew.

I got mine from a local supplier, but this is what I'm talking about:
http://www.rivetsinstock.com/rivet-n...jack-nuts.html

I'm guessing you could also use Nutserts for some applications, but I don't think they would work for thin fiberglass. They would probably split or crack the hold during installation. (But would be great for thin sheet metal and might work for fiberglass. I just don't know. Anyways, Harbor freight sells a nice kit at a reasonable price:
http://www.harborfreight.com/45-piec...-kit-1210.html

[bradford]

I agree with Skunk. I've been trying to wean myself of the habit of always doing the hi tech costly route and overthinking stuff when fixing up a boat. A lot of times the cheap and easy works as good or better and will last longer than you will.

[wellcraftv20step]

I agree with Phatt ,,I once used a simple piece of treated 2x4 laid against the underside of the flange and pull it up tight with screws ,,,,Done

[steplift20]

Yeah but the wood would rot and you would have to do it again, I don't want to do it again so I don't think the wood would be a good idea .

[SkunkBoat]

If you are going to check & reseal every year it really doesn't matter. You can use whatever scrap you have lying around