Swamped the Airslot

[smokeonthewater]

The hull is nothing to worry about... The issues will be with anything metal

If you removed the gelcoat before doing the repair it MIGHT be ok but I suspect that you likely simply put a bandaid over the leak... To repair it you need to fair it at at least a 5-1 scope and layer in new glass... I/E if the glass to be repaired was 1/2" thick you would need to grind back at least 2 1/2" in all directions.

I would not use anything automotive grade anything and would much prefer epoxy.

[dizzyspots]

The boat was not sunk..it took on a lot of water because of a gash in the outer sponson. The water was below the gunwales. the batteries and battery switch were submerged.
The engine was tilted fully up, the engine cover was touching the water, not sure if the carbs/powerhead got water or not.
The initial repair last season was 60gt prep to some raw glass but probably some 60gt gel. it was 3 layers: 1" wider all around, followed by 2" wider and 3" wider. Hardware store polyester resin and mat

[bradford]

Having saddle tanks your fuel is probably ok as long as no fittings or the fill or sending unit was submerged. One advantage of saddle tanks.

[dizzyspots]

the vent and necks were above the water line...i'll suck a sample and take a peek....

[dizzyspots]

Ok....motor is frozen. pulled the heads..found some corrosion is port lower cylinder...soaked with Marvel x 1 week...wont budge even with a socket and breaker bar on the flywheel not...tried electric impact as well...doesnt move.
Carb/intake look clean...gonna pull the intake and take a look at crank/bearings Ive built several auto v8's over the years, but not an outboard: 1987 Evinrude 140 looper..(200hrs) open to ideas and suggestions.....Mike

[smokeonthewater]

Did you let it sit all this time without getting it up and running?

If so you are motor shopping

[RidgeRunner]

Roller bearings typically won't lock one up. Stuck rings is my guess. You will have a lot to do if water made it into the crankcase to say the least. I am in agreement with Smoke, you are motor shopping at this point. If you had the time to pickle the engine before layup you had a chance of saving her. Now, you still can, but lots of dirty work and effort. Last rebuild kit for my 90 Johnrude was around $900, including all the bearings new... Bearings are a little pricey. The crankshaft won't survive with much rust on journals, and there is no such thing as oversize bearings on the crank, so it could be junk as well. Polishing may fix it up but I wouldn't count on it. You need to go ahead and pull the front half of that motor apart. Remove carbs and reed plate so you can see what the crank and rods look like. That will be the determining factor. You may have gotten lucky and only one piston is stuck. Find out which one and beat the crap out of it with a hammer. Making sure she isn't all the way at the bottom of the stroke first ... On that motor, the piston could be removed and replaced without taking the motor 100% apart. Just watch for all the needle bearings when you start taking the rod caps off. They are not caged and will go everywhere. Don't use a magnet to pick them up if you plan to reuse. (I have always heard this but don't remember why) Picture or two, I want to see the carnage.