1st post, looking for advice

[earle]

Originally Posted by scook

I'd brace it up so there's at least some hump in it - you don't want puddles on your deck.

I understand. I was thinking the same thing, but can't figure out how to do it, unless I glue the plywood up first and then glass the cross supports in place. Even then, will there be enough flex in the plywood to raise the centre line a bit after it's glued to the top?

[smokeonthewater]

Brace it up so it fits the shape of the deck exactly... Do not allow it to dry while bowed more than it should be...

If the deck is flat, so should the plywood be...

Cut the cross braces so that they exactly match the profile of the deck... Screw the deck piece to them and check that the profile has not changed.... Glass the assembly...

Then install in the boat with 3/16" peanut butter troweled on just like you would a floor tile....

Pre cut bamboo poles a few inches over length can then be bowed into place to firmly support it from the bottom and you can add weight from above if needed.

You can test the bottom support and weight system before gluing it together to make sure it's gonna work out.

You can also drill several 3/4" holes in the repair panel on say 18" centers to allow for both relief of the epoxy peanut butter and to manually verify that the panel is flush with the glass above it.

[earle]

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

Brace it up so it fits the shape of the deck exactly... Do not allow it to dry while bowed more than it should be...

If the deck is flat, so should the plywood be...

Cut the cross braces so that they exactly match the profile of the deck... Screw the deck piece to them and check that the profile has not changed.... Glass the assembly...

Then install in the boat with 3/16" peanut butter troweled on just like you would a floor tile....

Pre cut bamboo poles a few inches over length can then be bowed into place to firmly support it from the bottom and you can add weight from above if needed.

You can test the bottom support and weight system before gluing it together to make sure it's gonna work out.

You can also drill several 3/4" holes in the repair panel on say 18" centers to allow for both relief of the epoxy peanut butter and to manually verify that the panel is flush with the glass above it.

Thank you. Just what I needed to hear. Man, this forum is so cool.

[smokeonthewater]

I've put a bit of thought into this lately since I'm gonna have to do it soon.... Damn cool of you to come along and test all this out for me :-P

[earle]

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

I've put a bit of thought into this lately since I'm gonna have to do it soon.... Damn cool of you to come along and test all this out for me :-P

Happy to oblige. Appreciate the advice, just hope I don't have to report back on the resin in the armpit thing.

[scook]

Smoke's advice is better than mine - do what he says. My only caution is that if you do have a low spot (puddle) in the existing deck, be sure to take it out with your repair. Great idea drilling some holes to relieve the surplus goop and check that you're tight up under the existing deck.

[earle]

Originally Posted by scook

Smoke's advice is better than mine - do what he says. My only caution is that if you do have a low spot (puddle) in the existing deck, be sure to take it out with your repair. Great idea drilling some holes to relieve the surplus goop and check that you're tight up under the existing deck.

Okay gent's. Went to the big town yesterday and got all the stuff I need and am going to start cutting and dry fitting plywood today. One final question occurred to me, and you guy's probably know the answer.
The main sheet of plywood is pie shaped, about 70" x 40" at centre line. Is it realistic to try and cover the piece with thickened epoxy and still have time to fit it in place? The resin/hardener is Mas and the clerk told me I'll have about 30min. working time. Does that sound about right? I'm just wondering because I don't know how long to allow for spreading the stuff out? Don't want to run out of time before the wood is up and wedged into place. Thanks for any thots or tips.
Earl

[scook]

This isn't my area of expertise but a couple of thoughts come to mind. I've spread some floor covering adhesive and some thinset mortar with a notched trowel (like Smoke suggested) - it goes plenty fast, just be SURE you have enough mixed up to do the whole job. I can't imagine it taking you 5 minutes to do the spread. You might put some duct tape over the under side of the holes you've drilled in the plywood so you don't have to be careful about working around them spreading the resin and so it's not dropping in your armpits while you're initially getting it in place.

[smokeonthewater]

EDIT:
Nevermind the dumbass attack I previously posted here.....
:-/

[SkunkBoat]

MAS makes epoxy right? So you're using epoxy -thats good. When you glass the skin onto the piece you'll get a sense of the gel time. It won't change by adding filler. However, my experience is that afternoon gel times are much faster. I was starting my work in the morning at 70-75 degrees and by afternoon it was 85+.
Make a test batch of adhesive so you can guage the time and how much you need for the whole job. Its going to be a lot for a piece that size. You might want to mix multiple containers because larger batches get hot and kick faster.
But you will be pouring the whole batch onto the piece and spreading it quickly so that may not be such an issue.

I still suggest using a few well placed screws from the top to help hold the piece in place. Pre-drill the top skin and the screw will pull up the working piece. The holes for letting some squeeze out is an excellent idea. Just be careful because you are under it!!

Hmmmm? 70" x 40" is pretty big to hang upside down... I would think about cutting in 2 or 3 pieces. Smaller piece in the hard to reach area and gain experience with the process...