johnson 140 saga continues

[thebottomfish]

Okay guys, compression numbers as follows 120, 118, 113, 118...So to say I'm amazed the numbers match my compression from last week is an understatement.
Now it brings me to a dilemma...do I pull the heads and try to get this gunk out? Unless I put the head gasket on wrong I assume I can't screw up the compression. Just seems like I should let it be, after all I'm not sure this gunk is there from my recent overheat or of it's been there since I've owned it.
Dilemma two, of course I want to put in thermostats but since they weren't in there from the previous owner I'm not sure I should, for testing purposes right now...thoughts?
Warning horn didn't work when the tan wire was grounded and I ran hot lead direct to the warning horn so I think it's the horn that's toast...guess I gotta source one of those.
And I get to try my hand at replacing the water pump which I knew from the get go. Any tips disconnecting it from the linkage?

[THEFERMANATOR]

Try another gauge as compression on that engine should be up around 140-145.

[smokeonthewater]

did you test at wot? If not the numbers will be low

(wide open throttle)

[thebottomfish]

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

did you test at wot? If not the numbers will be low

(wide open throttle)

How do you test at WOT? If i move my throttle lever on the control box out of neutral it won't crank
Never knew you were supposed to test at WOT, interesting

[THEFERMANATOR]

the throttle has to be wide open, otherwise it is like trying to take a breath through a coffee straw.

[Striper80]

Originally Posted by thebottomfish

How do you test at WOT? If i move my throttle lever on the control box out of neutral it won't crank
Never knew you were supposed to test at WOT, interesting

Depending on your controls you should have either a lever to open the throttle at idle or a button that allow the throttle to be opened without putting the engine in gear.

[smokeonthewater]

Disconnect throttle cable at engine and open throttle there...

OR crank engine by jumping solenoid

[thebottomfish]

Well I replaced everything and I'm now convinced that I'm never going to get this lower unit back on...I've tried to get it to align for over three hours to no avail. Shift rod height is correct, water tube is going in smoothly but something is preventing it from getting the last 3 inches or so up, it's not the driveshaft because it is just barely touching the crank, splines won't align because I'm not getting it close enough...I'm sure the shift rod is getting hung up its a real nightmare.
Any tips or tricks?