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Unread 05-05-2015, 07:16 AM
thebottomfish thebottomfish is offline
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I am running premix, previous owner disconnected vro system. I will try grounding the warning horn as well as the compression test this afternoon and I guess I'll proceed from there.
This may seem stupid, but every time I've compression tested I've done it cold, with water running and warm with water running just because the muffs we're going to be on there sooner or later...since I won't be running the motor for this test do I still need to hook it up to muffs?
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Unread 05-05-2015, 08:17 AM
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phatdaddy phatdaddy is offline
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if u melted t-stats, pump is probably gone also, but it won't hurt to hook up hose.
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Unread 05-05-2015, 08:37 AM
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Water optional... You WILL be replacing the impeller RIGHT.. Just go ahead and pull the LU off.

Compression test done at wot with ign disabled.
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Unread 05-05-2015, 08:57 AM
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I'd leave the lower unit on until you do the compression test.

No immediate need to get the lower unit off if it has bad compression.
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  #5  
Unread 05-05-2015, 10:52 AM
thebottomfish thebottomfish is offline
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Yes I already have the water pump, thermostats, house barb nipples on order, today will determine if I'm getting head gasket as well.
Doing a compression test with the thermostat housing off the block should not effect anything correct? I know it's only 8 bolts but I don't feel the need to put them on to do the test.
Correct me if I'm wrong?
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Unread 05-05-2015, 01:15 PM
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Nope won't matter at all
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Unread 05-05-2015, 04:26 PM
thebottomfish thebottomfish is offline
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Okay guys, compression numbers as follows 120, 118, 113, 118...So to say I'm amazed the numbers match my compression from last week is an understatement.
Now it brings me to a dilemma...do I pull the heads and try to get this gunk out? Unless I put the head gasket on wrong I assume I can't screw up the compression. Just seems like I should let it be, after all I'm not sure this gunk is there from my recent overheat or of it's been there since I've owned it.
Dilemma two, of course I want to put in thermostats but since they weren't in there from the previous owner I'm not sure I should, for testing purposes right now...thoughts?
Warning horn didn't work when the tan wire was grounded and I ran hot lead direct to the warning horn so I think it's the horn that's toast...guess I gotta source one of those.
And I get to try my hand at replacing the water pump which I knew from the get go. Any tips disconnecting it from the linkage?
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