![]() |
|
|
|
#1
|
||||
|
||||
|
13eco.. do you nave pictures? sounds good
__________________
1986 V-20 2001 Mercruiser 4.3L
|
|
#2
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi TM, I should have taken pics while I did this. I don't use a router too often. pictures show plywood surround even with surface of starboard. the fence keeps a straight line around the inside edge of the starboard for the router base to follow. I don't think it can be done free hand. work from inside/center to outside so you have a flat surface for the router to travel on.
other 2 pictures show top and bottom after. I haven't added the hinges or spring stay yet. I'm going to add a latch to keep it closed, seems like lots of these hatches are lost while on the trailer, hoping latches help keep them on board going down the road. $20 router in 1990 has come in handy over the years. Last edited by 13Echo70271; 09-01-2016 at 02:33 PM. |
|
#3
|
|||
|
|||
|
Echo that is some great info. Im not the handiest with a router but I'm gonna give it a try. Thanks for the info and the pics. Yours look like they came out terrific!
|
|
#4
|
|||
|
|||
|
Hi I forgot to mention that there is a slight height difference (about 1/8 inch) on the hatches from the factory and the surrounding cap. that means you need a spacer under half the flat hinge. I used a coping saw to cut spacers from a piece of 1/8 inch black starboard I had, drilled them the same as the hinge to take care of that.
it shows in these two pics. Of course you could order 7/8 inch board if it is available, or take down the bottom edge of your new hatch with the router as a final step to make them fit flush (7/8 inch height instead of 1 inch). Take your time and it should work out ok either way. Good luck, TJ Last edited by 13Echo70271; 09-01-2016 at 02:33 PM. |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|