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#1
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basic boat wiring color codes:
Black= 12 volt ground Red= 12 volt positive yellow /red stripe= start circuit grey=tach signal blue=temp sender tan=temperature purple=key on 12 volt positive tan/purple stripe= alarm circuit pink=fuel level sender green=common bonding ground wire to wire a fuel gauge, you have a purple wire(key on power) to the B+ terminal, black wire to the B- terminal, pink wire to the sender terminal. The pink wire goes to the fuel tank sender, the sender has a dedicated ground wire, it will be either black or green. It will attach at the fuel tank usually under one of the fuel tank sender mounting screws |
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#2
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__________________
1987 V20 1996 Jonhson 150 OceanRunner |
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#3
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^^^ These were ESPECIALLY helpful! THANK YOU SO MUCH! I finally figured out how to PROPERLY access the back of the gauge panel and was able to take of picture:
![]() The new fuel gauge doesn't have a post for the light wires, but a spade terminal. I should probably use a double male, single female connector...splicing the gauge wires to one, and leaving the switch wire as a single? |
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#4
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I don't understand your question.... The gauge gets a switched positive from the ign switch OR a toggle if you prefer, the. It is grounded through the sending unit which is then grounded to bat neg.
Then the light for the gauge gets wired.... Often but not always the light has a switched positive and a constant ground That wire you have labeled as "to switch (I thought it was black)" is not FOR the fuel gauge... It it most either taking power from that circuit (which spans the lighti circuits of ALL of your gauges) and using it elsewhere OR supplying power to turn on the lights.... You can remove it and verify that the gauges still light up. On the gauge in your picture the black and red wires at the bottom almost definately are routed to the sending unit... Red is fuel level and black grounds to one o the screws mounting the sender. A yellow wire at the tank does not belong there... The only other wire that should be there would be a green bonding wire.... Would connect to fill port, tank, and engine block along with any other major metal component or thru hull hardware. Last edited by smokeonthewater; 03-23-2015 at 07:24 PM. |
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#5
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Quote:
![]() Quote:
Quote:
I've been know to mess up elementary colors on occasion! I'll double check to see if it's green, but it looks VERY yellow...maybe from old age (not me, the wire)? |
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#6
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No don't splice... Move the wires to a different gauge so only one goes to the spade
As long as all are connected ur gtg |
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#7
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Gotcha! Simple enough!
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#8
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Quote:
Its best not to use a red wire for that because it causes confusion since red is usually +12v supply(unswitched). Once people start "fixing" wiring, they tend to buy a spool of red and a spool of black and thoroughly confuse future owners....I will admit to nothing! ;)
__________________
1984 V20 "Express" & 2003 Suzuki DF140 (SOLD!) 2000 GradyWhite 265 Express YouTube/SkunkBoat https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC4F...znGospVOD6EJuw Transom Rebuild https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EEz94NbKCh0 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc |
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#9
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or one spool of red, run two wires and put a piece of black tape on each end of the neg wire
i also will admit to nothing |
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#10
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I saw those, but also saw a third yellow-ish wire going (???)...would that be the tank grounding wire? Also, when I tested the sender wires with a light, my voltage meter bottomed out (it was working fine before)
Last edited by A ReelCool Chick; 03-23-2015 at 02:27 PM. |
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