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Unread 03-06-2015, 06:26 PM
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i've used the regular heatshrink and just put a shot of dielectric grease in it. seems to hold up pretty well.
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Unread 03-06-2015, 08:15 PM
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Marine heat shrink has a sealer inside of it. When it is heated to shrink it, the inner liner turns to glue to completely seal the connection. It is some GOOD stuff, but hang on when you see the price. I remember buying it for $.25 a piece, and the last ones I bought 2 years ago were about $2 a piece. The problem I have found with the heat shring terminals is when you crimp them, you normally pierce the heat shring and leave part of the terminal exposed where the elements can get in. They're still good conenctors, just be careful crimping them. For your main feed wires, make sure and crimp, solder, and heat shrink them. If you crimp then solder the ends, it can still conduct electricity even if somehow you get a bad spot i nthe wire and it starts to turn black. If you just crimp it, that black portion inside the terminal wil lstop electricity from conducting, but when you solder it the black eelctrolisis cannot happen so the wire lasts longer(if that makes any sense, I'm pretty bad at describing things).
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Unread 03-07-2015, 02:28 AM
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By the way, I've had good results with Harbor Freight heat shrink connectors. They have the glue in them also, and make a perfect seal.
Additionally, remember that liquid electrical tape is your best friend. As the name implies it's a non-conducting liquid that you can brush on any electrical connection. After it dries you have a 100% complete air and water tight seal. I pretty much use it for any connection I have to make, including covering the spade terminals where they go into the buss box.
Remember, you're not only trying to keep out any water, but also any air. Salt air is just as corrosive as salt water. It just takes a little longer, but the result is the same. So make those connections as airtight as possible.
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