Newb Questions About 1984 Wellcraft Sportsman 228

[RidgeRunner]

I can't always get twine to go where I need it. So, I cut the end off an old shift cable and pulled out the stainless steel core. It is flexible to some extent and yet stiff enough to serve as a poor mans fish tape.
Agree whole-heartedly with leaving an extra piece of twine for next time.

Welcome aboard. IMPO you will never regret having done this yourself. The knowledge of what it is, where it is and how it is wired may literally save your life one day.

Now is no better time than to replace the bilge pumps, switches and hoses. RULE makes a good pump. 1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not.. I have a couple pumps in the bilge because my boat does not self-bail like most. My pumps are tested before every trip. They are 100% or I ain't going. Yes I am ANAL! I am not an expert. I can tell you what works for me in the past 35+ years.. The book makes for good reading. Then go get your hands dirty. It isn't hard at all, and you will gain valuable experience.

[A ReelCool Chick]

Originally Posted by RidgeRunner

1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not..

Thanks RR!

The boat has two bilges, and I'm definitely prepared to replace both if needed. I was thinking to have both on switches...is that not necessary? Just have one on a switch and the other straight auto?

[smokeonthewater]

You can have BOTH on float switches and BOTH on a dual pole switch or separate switches..
Yes they should both be switched in case of a failure of the float switch.

It's all about redundancy.

[Destroyer]

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

You can have BOTH on float switches and BOTH on a dual pole switch or separate switches..
Yes they should both be switched in case of a failure of the float switch.

It's all about redundancy.

Yep...that's what I meant in my previous post about having a switch that has 2 poles...one for auto (float switch) operation, the other for manual operation.

My main pump in the rear of the boat is a Rule 2000. My pump up forward is a Rule 1200. Like Smoke said, it's all about redundancy. BTW, You can never have too big a bilge pump. Ask MJ about the time a wave came over his windshield...

[smokeonthewater]

D what you're talking about is an on/on or on/off/on switch.

I'm referred to a switch with two sets of contacters so both pumps could be controlled by one switch. IE 4 or 6 terminals. Wouldn't be my firs choice tho.

Best IMHO tho would be a simple on/off switch for each pump with the float switch always hot.

[macojoe]

Yep that was a day!! no pumps at all that day, but she floated still with a **** pit full of water!
after that my next boat had 3 pumps! I had two auto one manual, I also put the 2 autos on seprate batterys with the 2nd float a bit higher. This way if it started to leak at the mooring it would kill the first battery then the water would get the 2nd flot and have a full battery for the 2nd pump. hopefully it would give enough time that someone would see something was wrong before it sank!

[SkunkBoat]

My recommendation is buy a new lighted 6 or 8 switch panel. Cut a hole right where the switches are now & mount it there. Replace any questionable wire with MARINE GRADE wire. Don't skimp!

NAV&Anchor/off/Anchor (I'm assuming you have an AllAround white light.)

Horn (momentary ON) get a red switch cover for that one

Bilge1ON(manual)/off(both will be Auto)/Bilge2ON(manual) (wire them both AUTO to electronic sensor switches to the battery with in line fuses)

Wiper on/off

Deck lights on/off

Electronics On/off ( you want to be able to switch off the power to FF/GPS/VHF cables to prevent corrosion, ask me how I know...)

The Compass was probably originally connected to the Engine Key On power. If not, connect it to your Anchor light.

You didn't mention Fuel Gauge. They usually came with a momentary switch but an on/off is better for when you're by yourself...

SO...

The new question is "How is 12V power fed TO your switches?"

Do you have separate 12V feeds from battery, thru an inline fuse, to each switch or is there a fuse block fed by a heavy (8 gauge) wire from the battery?
Is the main feed fused at the battery?