![]()  | 
	
| 
	 | 
| 
		 
			 
			#1  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			As far as I know, the 228/230 was pretty much un changed as far as teh hull goes from the early 80's when the 228 started until around 93 or so when the 230 stopped and WELLCRAFT went to the new style hulls. It is lower deadrise hull at 16 degrees. It isn't renowned for it's ride in rough waters if you want go very fast as it is only 16 degrees of deadrise with an 8 foot beam, but is said to be pretty stable at anchor. As far as your wiring goes, in 30 years of use and repairs it is anybodys guess what does what anymore. I'm with MJ and say you start over fresh if you want to be able to rely on it. It's anybodys guess how good the actual wire is in it anymore after 30 years of use, corrosion, and electrolisis.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#2  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Welcome aboard! I have nothing to add to the wiring discussion, but I can say, with all sincerity . . . 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
		
		
		
		
		
	
	More pics, please!  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#3  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
|||
		
		
  | 
|||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			Great feedback and Smoke's twine idea is gonna help out tremendously! 
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
		
	
	So now I'm looking at my system more critically including the bilges. I honestly thought that a control panel, was a control panel...kinda like in a car, but as I've read above, there's no telling what some one has done. SO to get started, I've inventoried what instruments/devices I know is on her. They are: (Control Panel) nav lights, bilge 1, bilge 2, anchor light, spotlight, windshield wipers, deck lights (Device controlled) vhf, stereo, depth finder, cabin lights Compass light...I think it's on continuously. Also, I read somewhere that she might have a wash down system. How can I identify it? I'm all snowed in right now, but I'll soon get some pics of the cluster I'm facing. I'll also sketch up a desired diagram and get y'all's input. Again, a million thanks!  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#4  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			when snaking wires to the rear of the boat I used good string to snake first, then when i tie the wire to pull thur i put another string with the wire, this way there is always a string there to pull another wire if needed. 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Also agree that you must use tined wire for a boat! I got on ebay pretty cheap when I did mine. Also if you can all wires should be sodered!! If not get the corrsin crimp ons and coat with liguid eletric tape! And FUSE everthing! Just my opinion. But thats like a$$hole$ we all have one! LOL 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	1986 V20 ![]() Old Fishermen never die, we just SMELL that way!!  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#5  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			The twine simulated cable idea is pure genius and I agree with Joe on always pulling in a spare string.  I learned that from an electrician friend who helped me wire my shop in EMT conduit - it's paid off many times when I wanted to change or add something.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	 | 
| 
		 
			 
			#6  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			i make the pull cord long enough to loop back up. that way i can tie the pull end back the side being pulled, and it just loops back around as you pull.
		 
		
		
		
		
		
		
			
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#7  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
||||
		
		
  | 
||||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 
			
			I can't always get twine to go where I need it.  So, I cut the end off an old shift cable and pulled out the stainless steel core.  It is flexible to some extent and yet stiff enough to serve as a poor mans fish tape.   
		
		
		
		
		
		
			Agree whole-heartedly with leaving an extra piece of twine for next time. Welcome aboard. IMPO you will never regret having done this yourself. The knowledge of what it is, where it is and how it is wired may literally save your life one day. Now is no better time than to replace the bilge pumps, switches and hoses. RULE makes a good pump. 1000 gph or bigger is what I would recommend and consider adding a second bilge pump with its own switch as a backup if the previous owner did not.. I have a couple pumps in the bilge because my boat does not self-bail like most. My pumps are tested before every trip. They are 100% or I ain't going. Yes I am ANAL! I am not an expert. I can tell you what works for me in the past 35+ years.. The book makes for good reading. Then go get your hands dirty. It isn't hard at all, and you will gain valuable experience. 
				__________________ 
		
		
		
		
		
	
	1996 -19' NV Flats 115 Mercury 4-stroke 1983 -20' Wellcraft Center Console 250 XS  | 
| 
		 
			 
			#8  
			
			
			
			
			
		 
		
	 | 
|||
		
		
  | 
|||
| 
		
	
		
		
			
			 Quote: 
	
 The boat has two bilges, and I'm definitely prepared to replace both if needed. I was thinking to have both on switches...is that not necessary? Just have one on a switch and the other straight auto?  | 
![]()  | 
	
	
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
		
  | 
	
		
  |