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#1
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Looks great! I don't know what they're going for, but $12K-14K sounds good to me.
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#2
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I believe some HP Yami's had issues with internal corrosion.
Suggest you check with: 1. Web sites such as The Hull Truth - for posts and information. 2. Call Yami dealers and ask - was this year and HP motor with internal corrosion issues ? 3. Ask how to check to be sure The boat............take your time to check these and more....... 1. Transom - any signs of water intrusion.... swelling, bowing, movement inside or out 2. Hull - get under it and check for signs of repair 3. How does it sit in the water ? Scuppers above, and does the boat lean ? 4. How does it ride- you drive. Check throttle response and if it jumps on plane easily or labors. 5. Max rpm ? Appropriate full speed ? Steering pulls ? Tabs work ? Be careful, don't rush, most all possible hidden issues come out if you do your work before deciding. ............And if seller won't provide water test, I'd walk. |
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#3
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I like the closed transom and that rear seat looks cool
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#4
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my buddy had one for years. really nice riding hull.
__________________
hammer aint. stinkpot aint. sawdust aint. rainbow aint. maco sure as sh!t aint. randle? ha ha ha. |
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#5
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Took a quick look at the boat today, but didn't make too thorough of an inspection because I was trespassing, lol. (Just knew from the pics where the boat was located and did a drive by). Talked to the owner. The number he will accept definitely will be above $14k, but I guess I'm willing to go higher, if everything checks out with the engine. I'm planning to run it Sunday. I guess I need to arrange to have it checked then, as well. The GPS is broken, so I have to (get to) look into that cost. It's listed on Boat Trader for $18k. Here's some pics of the gel coat blemishes.
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#6
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Quote:
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#7
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the corrosion issue on the Yamaha's were related to 2000-2003 200/225 four strokes(I've seen several). The 250 of the same years used a different style exhaust housing and didn't have the issues that people talk about. I haven't heard anyone run into a later model(post 2003) with the corrosion issues. Besides the mentioned issues, most of what I see is corrosion on the trim components. Most Yamaha's use the Showa trim system, its the same that Bombardier, Honda, and Suzuki use so its not brand specific. As with any engine, taking care of your anodes is a maintenance item that doesn't need to be neglected. From what I see around here, the Yamaha's seem to hold up to corrosion better than any of the other manufactures. Mercury used to be the best but somewhere along the lines they changed their aluminum(probably coincides with the closing of the Stillwater plant) and its not as good as it once was. Back in the day, Johnson/Evinrude had a soft aluminum, it didn't corrode that bad, but it wouldn't hold threads well. OMC changed their aluminum for the worse some where in the late 90's. I can't comment on the newer E-Tecs as there are so few of them around here it would be hard to come up with an opinion on corrosion on them. The ones I notice in the stacks don't seem to be used much. Suzuki's are known for their corrosion issues and the failure of warranty to cover anything about it. Our area is listed as a "hot" area and Suzuki will not honor corrosion related issues on boats around here(explains why there are no more new Suzukis sold by local dealers). Honda has the worst aluminum of them all. i caution my customer who own if I have to take anything apart, I'm not responsible if it falls apart in my hands.
As far as that boat you are interested in, I'd have the engine checked over by a Yamaha shop. that's a real good engine and probably my first choice in an engine in that horse power range. I sold a new 250 just before Christmas for $14750(real good price), that should give you an idea of what the engine on that boat is worth(I'm guessing $9500-$11000). The only thing about that Robalo is what Ferm said, its only as good as the last redo and the person doing the work. Have the hull checked out real good. I've seen plenty of nice older boats with major structural issues that some one was trying to hide to get it sold. Good luck finding your boat Bradford made a good point about the height of the bottom paint. there's a local guy trying to sell his 2002 Yamaha four stroke because it was too heavy for his Sea Craft. One of my customers went to look at it and it had low compression on the bottom cylinder, probably from the exhaust issue |
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#9
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Appreciate all the input! So I felt like I had to reach a price I was comfortable at before I start shelling out cash to have a mechanics checking it, and we are there at $15k. I was putting the engine around $10, the trailer around $2, and the hull can be justified at $3... The t-top is nice and the layout is good (for me).
The water line is a good observation... The 4 stroke is much heavier than whatever was on it new. I'll need to see how it floats on Sunday, assuming we get past step 1 with the mechanic. The bottom paint I'm not as concerned with... I think it's ugly, but oh well. I know this guys not hiding anything, but there could be plenty that he doesn't know about. He's owned for 1.5 years, put 33 hours on it, and can't even launch his own boat. At first I thought he was just sketchy (maybe lying), but I had a talk with the harbor master (boat is on storage yard at local waterfront condos), and he confirmed everything the guy said about his boating skill level. Good idea to bring the moisture meter, I happen to have one and will use it on the cracks. I couldn't tell that it was paint because it is so thick like a crust... I can fix all that stuff as long as it's cosmetic. According to him the stringers are redone with composite when the transom was capped, so I'm assuming the whole thing was done right with Arjay or something. I don't really know how to inspect it... I'd have to pull the seat to pull the gas tank cover... Thats not really happening. Everything felt very solid... I bounced on it and check all the hatches. My value of the boat is probably a little higher than some of you guys because it fits my needs and uses perfectly. I am not in the market to buy a boat... Would've sold my V first if I was. Just happened across the ad and I hadn't seen it listed before. It's a bit beefier than my V for sporty conditions; it has reliable, fuel efficient power and greater fuel capacity, which doubles my range; plenty of room for storage of gear, double the rod storage; most importantly... My wife likes all the seating so we can bring friends out tubing and booze cruising. We live on the water so we use it a lot, but the V only has two seats and everybody else is sitting on cooler(s). No good for her. It's been a great 5 years, but it's time to move on from the V. A nice V21 dual console would do the trick. Or a Grady Freedom 225 ($$$$$). This is in the budget and I think I can get a solid 5 years out of it, then I'll probably be ready to move on again. So if it rides a little low... Is that a deal breaker? Or could tabs fix it? I will be loading the bow with tanks and gear, but I will almost always have 1-2 guys sitting in the back, as well. |
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#10
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Either get a survey done profesionally, or at the minimum get a moisture meter and go over the hull with a FINE TOOTH COMB as the saying goes. Being it's an 81 that has had a major redo, it will only be as good as whoever did the work. If it was done right, then it should be a good hull, but if stress cracks are appearing, the owner may know the restoration wasn't done right, and he is trying to unload it before it gets to the point the problems are obvious. EVERY old ROBALO I have seen has had water intrusion problems, and rotted wood. So the deal maker or breaker is was it restored properly or not? As to the engine, they are pretty good, but hang onto your but when it does need repairs. I've got a friends 05 225 here(no VVT), and some basic maintenance on it is going to cost him well over $500 for just the engine. Also make sure it has had the zincs kept up with as some of the bigger V6's had corrosion issues.
The best money you can spend on it BEFORE buying is a survey to make sure the resto was done right IMHO.
__________________
2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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