Ferm and other vortec guys I need help!

[Stinky_Hooker]

Damn ferm I just picked up two new lifters and they are "sealed". should I not use them? What brand do you recommend?

[THEFERMANATOR]

I will oNLY use MELLINGS lifters. I will NEVER use another SEALED POWER hydraulic roller in an aold school VORTEC again. BOTH times I used SEALED POWER I had problems, and both times it was in a 350 with a hydraulic roller cam. AUTOZONE carries MELLINGS, most everybody else carries SEALED POWER. And MELLINGS was the OEM manufacturer for GM for these which is strange considering FEDERAL MOGUL makes many OEM parts.

[Stinky_Hooker]

Well I have my compression back after grinding the valves and putting the head back on. I pulled the other head to be sure since the carbon buildup was so bad on the valve stems. Reworked it and just reinstalled. Calling it a night. Hope to get the intake and everything else back on tomorrow. I'm praying at this point I haven't burned up a lower end bearing since my oil pressure gauge doesn't work. I put a new oil pressure sending unit on today. The needle needs calibrating but it's doing something now at least.

[smokeonthewater]

Glad you got it back together. Carbon build up is pretty common on 'city cars' the old phrase "blow the carbon out" actually does have some merit.... Once in a while a few wot 0-60's can help avoid that happening.

[spareparts]

if you are not running a cat, add some Yamaha ring free to your gas, it will get rid of any carbon. Its the same thing as techron additive, its cheaper by the treated gallon than techron at the auto parts store

[Stinky_Hooker]

Yeah I drive like a grandpaw and it shows.


Can yall walk me through the timing and valve/rocker arm settings?

Go to #1 TDC, adjust 1/4 turn past zero lash, then 2, 3, 4, etc...etc....right?



Im gonna need that tomorrow and need a refresher.

[smokeonthewater]

there are a few different ways to get it done but this is probably the most fool proof way with the engine not running

http://www.centuryperformance.com/va...procedure.html


OR you can do it as mentioned above tho I personally prefer to adjust when not running.

[THEFERMANATOR]

bring it to tdc compression stroke for each cylinder. rotate the pushrod and tighten it down until the slack is taken up, then go an extra 1/4 turn. repeat for each cylinder. if you go in the firing order, then it is only 1/4 turn of the crank to tdc for the next one.