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Unread 11-01-2014, 06:10 PM
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when I replaced my transom I cut out my splashwell and worked from the inside.


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Unread 11-01-2014, 07:15 PM
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Striper, looks like your deck is not part of the cap so you are lucky.
I'm going to try to keep the cuts accessible from the backside so I don't have to feather the glass repair. Looks like you'll be able to do the same.
Just a thought but if you make your cuts in the stern near those cushions, straight back, you can hide the repair with cushions and teak/starboard across the top.

Captpete, thanks for the picture. I though about staying just in the spashwell but I don't think I'll be able to reach the far ends of the transom on my '84. Your spashwell is much wider and you don't have the doors.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oe_ZmPOUCNc

Last edited by SkunkBoat; 11-01-2014 at 07:25 PM.
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Unread 11-01-2014, 07:55 PM
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My floor is definitely separate from the cap. I may have to cut a little of the floor away to get to the skin but that isn't too big of a deal. I'm hoping to start cutting within the next few weeks.
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Unread 11-03-2014, 10:41 AM
cterrebonne cterrebonne is offline
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You can always cut out the exterior skin of the transom about 6 inches or so from the sides and keel. Then once all the bad core is out you can re glass the skin back on with vinyl ester resin and fair it out. It's a very common way to redo transoms especially if you are pouring one in. By leaving the 6" or so of the old skin on, you will have more than enough to glass back on to. If you are still concerned you can go past the transom and onto the sides around that edges. It's just more faring work. That's what I would have done with my V, if the stringers weren't gone.
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Unread 12-09-2014, 12:18 PM
gw204f gw204f is offline
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I would cut the cap directly across those rear rod holders. That way you won't have to worry about replicating any of the non-skid. You may have to replace core in the area too and it will already be open at that point.
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