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#1
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I too just bought an oval pool cover. But I built my winter frame using EMT conduit and kover klamps. A bit pricey compared to pvc, but should last the next decade. Will try to get some pics this weekend.
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#2
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Sounds good Duck. Keep us posted. I hate previous owners who use blatantly wrong hardware and methods when doing it right wouldn't even cost them extra. The lexan wind sheild on my Carolina Skiff was put on with expandable sheet rock anchors.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#3
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Quote:
I've used basically the same set up for over 5 years now and it works great. Used a Hicky to bend the 1 1/4" heavy wall pipe to a nice curve for up at the bow and over the windshield. For strength I cut 6" pieces of the next size down and inserted them at the joints... much stronger than using couplers and no projections to puncture the pool cover. I don't recommend PVC because it gets brittle in sub-freezing weather. Add a few hundred pounds of wet snow on top of the cover and it will snap 2" PVC right at the joints like they are matchsticks. (Ask me how I know) Since I switched to metal pipe I've had zero problems with my boat cover. Just remember that no matter how you cover your boat, MAKE SURE you leave all hatches and and the cabin door open. Otherwise moisture will collect under your deck and start rotting out your deck and stringers. Keep your boat well ventilated and you'll avoid a lot of trouble going forward.
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#4
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An easy tarp support can be made of 2x4s in a "spine" from the top center of the windshield to the top of the motor...then a second 2x4 from just beside the first one on top of the windshield to the bow rail. A stiff leg under the bow rail will give it the support it needs. Padding in appropriate places: top of the motor, top of the windshield and where ever you feel it's needed. I've used this system for years and works well, w/easy tear down a big plus when time to splash...
If you don't like the idea of the top of the motor for support, an "A" frame from the transom should be easy enough to configure...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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#5
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Quote:
__________________
1987 V20 w/1987 150HP Yamaha on a Shoreland'r Trailer 1978 16.5 Airslot w/1996 120HP Force on a Four Winns trailer 1996 V21 w/1993 200HP Mercury on a Shoreline Trailer All towed by a 5.7L Hemi Durango. If God didn't have a purpose for us we wouldn't be here, so Live simply, Love generously, Care deeply, Speak kindly. (Leave the rest to God) ![]() Silence, in the face of evil, is itself evil. Not to speak is to speak, not to act is to act. God will not hold us guiltless. |
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#6
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#7
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That noodle is a good idea! I've been using a foot long piece of 3/4 in. heater hose split on each side of the windshield for years. It works well too.
__________________
77 V20 cuddy with 170 I/O Mercruiser 72 16ft. Carolina w/a 25hp Evinrude |
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#8
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I used some of the flexible downspout pipe for the same purpose w/good result...cut one slice lengthwise and fit it over the top edge, turning the corners at the side windows...
__________________
'74 V-20/ BF 150 '95 V-21/ BF 150 '84 V-20/ 200 2.4 Merc '87 V-20/'18 F150 Yamaha |
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