Transom replacement

[Striper80]

My Grady is different. The splashwell is part of the cap but the floor is separate. My plan is to cut the cap at it's narrowest point then either cut the floor and do it with wood or hollow out the cavity and pour it.

[phatdaddy]

skunk, i might have to do something similar, but i was thinking about lifting the fuel tanlk cover and cutting from there to the sides, through the rodbox cutouts. this would give access to the last couple of feet of the stringers also.

[Striper80]

This is what the stern of my boat looks like. Nothing like a v20.

I plan on cutting the cap at one of the tape marks, I haven't decided which spot yet. The mark closer to the stern the cap is wider the other mark the cap is narrower.

[captpete13]

when I replaced my transom I cut out my splashwell and worked from the inside.

[SkunkBoat]

Striper, looks like your deck is not part of the cap so you are lucky.
I'm going to try to keep the cuts accessible from the backside so I don't have to feather the glass repair. Looks like you'll be able to do the same.
Just a thought but if you make your cuts in the stern near those cushions, straight back, you can hide the repair with cushions and teak/starboard across the top.

Captpete, thanks for the picture. I though about staying just in the spashwell but I don't think I'll be able to reach the far ends of the transom on my '84. Your spashwell is much wider and you don't have the doors.

[Striper80]

My floor is definitely separate from the cap. I may have to cut a little of the floor away to get to the skin but that isn't too big of a deal. I'm hoping to start cutting within the next few weeks.

[cterrebonne]

You can always cut out the exterior skin of the transom about 6 inches or so from the sides and keel. Then once all the bad core is out you can re glass the skin back on with vinyl ester resin and fair it out. It's a very common way to redo transoms especially if you are pouring one in. By leaving the 6" or so of the old skin on, you will have more than enough to glass back on to. If you are still concerned you can go past the transom and onto the sides around that edges. It's just more faring work. That's what I would have done with my V, if the stringers weren't gone.

[Striper80]

Originally Posted by Striper80

This is what the stern of my boat looks like. Nothing like a v20.

I plan on cutting the cap at one of the tape marks, I haven't decided which spot yet. The mark closer to the stern the cap is wider the other mark the cap is narrower.

I've decided that I'm going to use marine plywood and poly resin. I'm going to cut the cap at the tape line nearest to the transom. I'm going to glass the cap to the transom at the splashwell, eliminating the aluminum trim. As of right now I plan on keeping it a 20" transom and using the jack plate that I bought. Raising the transom would require quite a bit of glass work to the splashwell. Who knows though, my plans may change. As far as fairing and finish work, there's no worry there, I'm an autobody painter by trade. My biggest concern is tinting the gelcoat to match perfect, it's a bit tougher than tinting paint for some reason.

[smokeonthewater]

personally I would zip out a few screws and raise the cap in one piece.... much less glass work and no worries about trying to match old gelcoat

[Striper80]

Originally Posted by smokeonthewater

personally I would zip out a few screws and raise the cap in one piece.... much less glass work and no worries about trying to match old gelcoat

Way too much work to lift the cap than to lift a 2 foot section. I have 2 reasons: the Grady has a 3 piece hull and I plan on selling this boat.