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#1
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I think you are going to have trouble if you mix metals unless you can insulate that aluminum plate from the stainless angle, the plate will act like a sacrificial anode to the bracket, especially in saltwater.
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Doug 87 Cuddy with a 94 Black Max 200! & a 1983 Cuddy, looking for power. Last edited by garbubba; 10-07-2014 at 02:41 PM. Reason: i'm an idiot |
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#2
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he has no need for an aluminum plate.... all he needs is angle and bolts
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#3
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i think he was going to put some plate on the inside of the transom for backing plate
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#4
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Buy this hull get a free jack plate, $300. Then flip the hull.
http://augusta.craigslist.org/boa/4694174420.html
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1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#5
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Not precisely. I asked how it should be built, and someone suggested to put a plate on the inside.
It's clear from this thread everything should be aluminum, and consensus appears that it isn't strictly needed. The force applied is greatest at the inside top bolts of the transom and the outside bottom bolts due to the whole thing essentially being a lever. The bolts are stainless only because aluminum bols aren't strong enough (if they even exist). I personally am uncomfortable using angle for an engine this size, I would feel better if it were at least "c" channel. That is just my gut feel, no actual numbers to back that up. But I have looked at pictures of Z-Lock for comparison. Most notably, the hi jacker design (which resembles the angle design) is rated up to 150hp. For larger engines, the design changes. The amount of force needed to move 2000lbs of boat, plus 1000lbs of fuel, people, and gear has to be significant ... Plus it must apply some amount of torque due to the prop. [EDIT] Just found this design that uses angle brackets here: Machine Shop Goes up to 300hp, so maybe angle is OK. I am stopping by a metal place Friday to see what is available and what it costs. Last edited by peiserma; 10-07-2014 at 09:28 PM. Reason: bobs machine shop |
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