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#1
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I agree... Don't bother w the plate... 1 or 2 mph on the top end is not worth the several hundred you'll spend on a j/p and cables...
Start with the anti ventilation plate parallel and even with or up to 1" above the keel. |
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#2
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Don't waste the money on a jack plate. It just isn't worth it. Run your bolts through from the hull side through the engine, and put the nuts on the engine side. This way the bolts can stay in place if you need to raise or lower the engine later on.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#3
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Ferm thats a good idea. Is that a long term solution? Or just do that for test runs? This V is going through some gelcoat work soon as well and I might take the engine off for that too, but I wanted to get a new water line mark with the change in weight. Thanks guys!
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84' V-20 Steplift w/ 175 Yamaha |
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#4
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That's how I mount mine. Just make sure the hole is coated in 5200 when the bolt goes in as well as a good coat of 5200 on the bolt.
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2011 SUNDANCE B20CCR SKIFF, 2011 YAMAHA 90HP 4 STROKE, 2011 KARAVAN SINGLE AXLE ALUMINUM TRAILER, LOWRANCE ELITE-7 HDI, MINN KOTA RIPTIDE TROLLING MOTOR 2000CC HYDRA-SPORT 225+HP EVINRUDE SOLD ![]() AND THE PINK JEEP!!!! R.I.P. http://www.wellcraftv20.com/communit...ad.php?t=11664 |
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#5
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I use only stainless bolts n put em in from the inside with plenty of 5200 as well.
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#6
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I don't use 5200, I may have to take them out at some point, I use Life Seal Silicone, works pretty good and its not as permanent as 5200
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#7
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a dead blow hammer pops out a 5200 sealed transom bolt easy as pie....
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