Repowering V20- looking for some input

[Bosts1]

Thanks Spare, that is the kind of info I was looking for. I am trying to decide if i want to go ahead and replace the cables while I am at it. I have an old 703 control in there that is a bit worn out. If I don't go with a jackplate then I can use the cables and get a new binnacle. If I go with jackplate I am going to have to get new steering and throttle cables. Decisions, decisions. Where would you start with mounting the engine as far as height is concerned. I haven't ever mounted an outboard this size.

[smokeonthewater]

I agree... Don't bother w the plate... 1 or 2 mph on the top end is not worth the several hundred you'll spend on a j/p and cables...

Start with the anti ventilation plate parallel and even with or up to 1" above the keel.

[THEFERMANATOR]

Don't waste the money on a jack plate. It just isn't worth it. Run your bolts through from the hull side through the engine, and put the nuts on the engine side. This way the bolts can stay in place if you need to raise or lower the engine later on.

[Bosts1]

Ferm thats a good idea. Is that a long term solution? Or just do that for test runs? This V is going through some gelcoat work soon as well and I might take the engine off for that too, but I wanted to get a new water line mark with the change in weight. Thanks guys!

[THEFERMANATOR]

That's how I mount mine. Just make sure the hole is coated in 5200 when the bolt goes in as well as a good coat of 5200 on the bolt.

[smokeonthewater]

Originally Posted by THEFERMANATOR

That's how I mount mine. Just make sure the hole is coated in 5200 when the bolt goes in as well as a good coat of 5200 on the bolt.

I use only stainless bolts n put em in from the inside with plenty of 5200 as well.

[spareparts]

I don't use 5200, I may have to take them out at some point, I use Life Seal Silicone, works pretty good and its not as permanent as 5200