need some guidance. stringers & transom

[brywheat]

It's in the blood, Picture of my great grandfathers ship building tools. My dad donated them to our local maritime museum.


Pics of the gelcoat, where I have sanded and alot more to go






Next couple pics are for fairing related questions. How thick can fairing be on its own? At what thickness should i be adding CSM?




This last pic has me concerned. this is the top where the outter and inner skin match up. Looks like it's resin starved? recomendations on fixing?





Bored at work


Thanks again for your input & help!!

[tartuffe]

That photo you refer to as resin starved, don't think that is what is going on there. Not really sure what is going on there from the photo. I would't blow that up until you get some more pics to see what exactly it is we are looking at.

Just curious if that area seems weak? Can you separate the layers with little force. My boat has an interior liner so I'm not familiar with that style of construction.

[brywheat]

Tartuffe,

The pic shows where the inner skin meets the outter hull at the gunwale, next to the transom. It appears the 1975 hull had three piece construction. Outter hull, inner skin which matches the outter hull shape and included the original floor, and the gunwale cap. It looks like weave that isnt filled or smooth with resin and only looks like its an issue in that one spot. With force Im sure some layers would separate about an inch or two down and weak in that area. Here is the same pic edited. Ill try and get a better one for you.



Thanks again!

[brywheat]

Im sure separating the inner and outter skin wont be too bad, I was going to leave it in place but i want to do it right, coming out this week.

[brywheat]

Tartuffe?

Love your build, awesome work. Im sure ill say it a million times and such a great reference. Question, why did you fill the strakes with thickened epoxy and glass over? Just wondering what that does? easier for stringer replacment?

[tartuffe]

I don't think I would worry with pulling that inner skin out. What you see is woven roving. Basically just a very heavy-duty fiberglass.

If I wanted to bond those 2 layers together I would sand the top 4 inches of the inner layer with a heavy grit sand paper or even a grinder. You want to sand it so that the inner layer is paper thin where it meets the roving and full depth 4" away, so sanded at an angle. Use a putty knife and smear some thickened resin over the roving to squish it into the holes. Next I would roll a thin coat of resin over the sanded portion and then overlap the smeared resin and sanded/coated portion of the inner layer with a layer of 17 oz mat. I would then finish wetting out the piece of 17 oz cloth and then roll the whole thing with a metal roller. Once cured out sand the whole thing smooth.

Also youtube has alot of good videos to see different ways to approach things. Gotta watch a few as there are several that deliver some sub-standard advice.

[tartuffe]

Originally Posted by brywheat

Tartuffe?

Love your build, awesome work. Im sure ill say it a million times and such a great reference. Question, why did you fill the strakes with thickened epoxy and glass over? Just wondering what that does? easier for stringer replacment?

The boat originally had big pieces of roving that went across the strakes with a big air pocket so that it formed a triangle. I ground all of that out as some places did not have a very good bond. I didn't know if this was originally just sloppy craftsmanship or had some type of structural property with the triangle. In hindsight I'm pretty sure it was just sloppy work so I wouldn't worry with doing that. I used alot of material to do that and probably added 10-20 unnecessary pounds for added strength that really isn't needed. Would be like putting bulletproof glass on your center console.

[brywheat]

Originally Posted by tartuffe

The boat originally had big pieces of roving that went across the strakes with a big air pocket so that it formed a triangle. I ground all of that out as some places did not have a very good bond. I didn't know if this was originally just sloppy craftsmanship or had some type of structural property with the triangle. In hindsight I'm pretty sure it was just sloppy work so I wouldn't worry with doing that. I used alot of material to do that and probably added 10-20 unnecessary pounds for added strength that really isn't needed. Would be like putting bulletproof glass on your center console.

Ive seen the same on mine, It appears that the roving is used fro the factory stringers, with tons of air pockets too, suprised at the things Ive seen in this hull that is sloppy craftsmanship, Not sure if its from factory or the PO.

The PO rasied the floor by screwing 2" x 10" to the inside of the factory stringers. Gave me a good guild for the rebuild. I think Im might still need to remove the inner liner or cut the rest of the old cuddy flooring out. PO just cut the floor to the cuddy.

Tartuffe,

What resin/ glass combo/ Brand name did you use. Is West systems worth it?