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#1
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Tartuffe
For composite board dose it have to be infused vacuum bagged? Or whatever the proper terminology is? Doing research and it looks like awesome stuff. Did you start your rebuild onthe exterior of the hull? How did you flip it? Still have your support? Sorry for so many questions but I really appreciate the help! |
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#2
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The gelcoat is also completely shot. . I've started exterior sanding and hit the glass in a few spots.. grinding down all cracks. Does the gelcoat all need to come off? 2hrs sanding didn't get a lot done.. I'll post some pics in the am
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#3
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All the gel coat doesn't need to come off.
Going back with paint will be a whole lot easier.
__________________
1985 Wellcraft V-20, Evinrude ETEC 150: SOLD 1979 Marine Trader 44, twin Ford Lehman 120s 2006 Panga 14, Tohatsu 20 |
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#4
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It's in the blood, Picture of my great grandfathers ship building tools. My dad donated them to our local maritime museum.
![]() Pics of the gelcoat, where I have sanded and alot more to go ![]() ![]() ![]() Next couple pics are for fairing related questions. How thick can fairing be on its own? At what thickness should i be adding CSM? ![]() ![]() This last pic has me concerned. this is the top where the outter and inner skin match up. Looks like it's resin starved? recomendations on fixing? ![]() ![]() Bored at work ![]() Thanks again for your input & help!! Last edited by brywheat; 07-12-2014 at 08:06 PM. |
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#5
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That photo you refer to as resin starved, don't think that is what is going on there. Not really sure what is going on there from the photo. I would't blow that up until you get some more pics to see what exactly it is we are looking at.
Just curious if that area seems weak? Can you separate the layers with little force. My boat has an interior liner so I'm not familiar with that style of construction.
__________________
81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro |
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#6
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Tartuffe,
The pic shows where the inner skin meets the outter hull at the gunwale, next to the transom. It appears the 1975 hull had three piece construction. Outter hull, inner skin which matches the outter hull shape and included the original floor, and the gunwale cap. It looks like weave that isnt filled or smooth with resin and only looks like its an issue in that one spot. With force Im sure some layers would separate about an inch or two down and weak in that area. Here is the same pic edited. Ill try and get a better one for you. ![]() Thanks again! |
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#7
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Im sure separating the inner and outter skin wont be too bad, I was going to leave it in place but i want to do it right, coming out this week.
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#8
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Quote:
__________________
81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro |
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#9
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The pic of the straightedge against the gunnel showing the wave in the hull, that will come out with the construction of the cap. Take it easy with the sanding. Sanding sucks and damn its enticing to go with a grit to actually make some progress like an 80 or even 60. In reality you should probably use a chemical stripper and a 200 grit. The more of that gelcoat you save the better. Gelcoat is a waterproof coating that protects the fiberglass from water intrusion. Its kind of like an insurance policy.
Most of your fairing will be with high-build primers and a longboard. Takes many coats but the lighter the color of the finished product, the more forgiving it is. These boats are not incredibly fair to begin with. I wouldn't be too worried with that. Few sanded coats of high build primers with some longboarding and it is what it is. We can talk about that after you get the structural fixed.
__________________
81 V20 1996 200 Ocean Pro |
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